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Thread: Planned Upgrade of Stock Standard TD5

  1. #1
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    Planned Upgrade of Stock Standard TD5

    Planned Upgrade of Stock Standard TD5

    Excuse the long preamble but the questions are based on this.

    Had originally planned for the TD5 with rear air, leather sunroof etc. To be my second vehicle, just put the bags back in, lift it all 2” connect CDL and front bar with winch and be a day tripper not a long hauler, my much loved TDi 300 to be the proper 4WD. Left knee disinter-grating and unlikely to be done within 2 years, so its Auto from here and the TD5 has to step up.

    The TD5 has the obligatory paint degradation, 26oK’s all done on the highways of country victoria.

    Its funny other than a boost pin didn’t want to touch the purity (I know strange term to use on a LandRover D1) of a simple machine with immense capability and oh so comfortable. But it has to go.

    Mapping out the future then, have started a list of improvements other than those already mentioned as for these I already have the parts. Do not want to spend more than $8K all up, not after a weapons grade rockcrawler but a robust vehicle that with basic maintenance could be driven to the Cape and back and comfortably take on the Vic High Country.

    Last night ordered a TC from the states, fully recoed from a 4.0 V8 for just on $400 delivered to my door. There are a lot of them there and seemingly a lot lot cheaper due to them only have V8’s, the 4.6 TC are pretty expensive (and unviable to use in standard box anyway )but the 4’s seems cheap.

    Ashcroft kit to be ordered tonight for fitting it.

    Will be fitting a long range 140 litre tank, the 50 litre side tank that I got does not fit due to the ACE and SLS I found out too late and I want both of them! Along with guards for the diffs and auto.

    Already have a NNN, airbox for a performance upgrade and as the choice of such appears to be like football teams, every one cheering for their own.


    But will be looking at sort of stage 2 thingy rather than simple upgrade but aimed at lowdown torque not outright power. There fore which gives the most low down torque and does it really require a change of Turbo or just a new cartridge fitted? Keeping in mind I want torque, does this bring up issues of the drivetrain i.e. front propshaft?

    Now it becomes more perplexing. Do not really want to go above 32 but if 33’s do fit and the price is right would not discount them but only if I don’t have to do cutting etc. The way I figure it, the extra height of the SLS when needed would be greater than the 1/2 inch or so of tyre?

    Already have a set of 3”+ Terrafirma’s and know I have to strap the front spring, does this also apply to the SLS if this has the 2”spacer fitted?

    Now the real issues, want to fit low ratio diffs, but which ratio? Along with ATB’s (keeping in mind budget and I want front and rear). IF I do change the ratio what is the cost to fit the high range gear to the transfer case? So many questions!!!!

    The ATB are around $1.5 K for the two or the same as single Locker, the 1.4 gear set (appears gets the 32’s back to standard speedo - still have to take into account the diff ratio changes…) around $400 and the diff ratios are around the same for each. Budget is getting tight.

    But which gear set? If I do go 32” and not really haven’t driven an auto on the trails but would imagine the lack of engine braking versus a manual would be more than noticeable! I like engine braking down step inclines!
    So of the three for an occasional daily driver would be the best choice with the knowledge as well it has to drive 1000’s of K’s occasionally to get where I want to go on the tarmac? Would the 4.75 be unbearable driving from Melbourne to the Cape???

    The most it would it tow would be a dingo camper which only weights about 1200K’s

    4.12 ratio, with a tooth count of 33/8

    4.37 ratio, with a tooth count of 35/8

    4.75 ratio, with a tooth count of 38/8

    So the budget of $8K depends on fitting all the above for about $2k, taking the diffs out and refitting them and ATB Transfer box and auto TC, - suspension and changes of uni’s are not a problem.

    Does this sound feasible or have I missed something such as the drivetrain which would also be required to upgraded and then at what cost?

    PS The long range fuel tank can wait till for sometime as the planned trip to the Cape next May is not going to happen in the current climate.

  2. #2
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    Changing gear ratio in transfer case won't help you correct your speedo readings at all. Speed signal comes from ABS sensors. So you can save some money by not touching those gears and changing just the gears in differentials.

  3. #3
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    Gearing

    Not fussed overly by the 'speedo' reading per se, rather the revs at 100 kph and as hoping to keep this under 3,000, but I do know with the TDi, the 32's did have an impact at the crawl, second low at times could be just a tad too quick, eventually get used to it and of course can just put in 1st and crawl... Going up the hill towards Marysville with the trailer, the marginal became somewhat abysmal!!!

  4. #4
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    Td5 auto has adequate engine braking, it also has hill decent.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  5. #5
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    Hi
    I have a 2004 TD5 auto with 2” lift on 32” muddies and you will want to get a tune if towing anything. Still have the airbags using spacers and for what I do they are great. (Now carry spare bags when on long trips but that’s another story)
    Have contacted Empire Tuning in the uk and they have been very helpful, quick to respond and seem well priced depending on what you are after.
    I have found the auto to have plenty of engine braking and is a pleasure to drive long distance sits at 2225 rpm on 110kph. The muddies are noisy on road but it doesn’t bother me and work great off-road.
    I use a sat nav for accurate speedo (vms cause I got it cheep)
    I find the hill decent to be fast for my liking in most off road situations.
    Discovery D2a 2004 TD5 auto (current)
    Discovery 1 V8 1996 manual (gone)
    Various series Land Rovers before moving to OZ

  6. #6
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    Post Engine Braking

    Re engine braking, based on the ashcroft calculator just changing the tyre size to 32", the difference between the Tdi 5spd and TD5 Auto at 10kph in low range is 2834 RPM versus 1903 RPM

    Does this mean therefore that the Auto TC will not have locked (if it does at all in Low Range 1st!!!) - it is closer to the TDi Second which I found a little too fast in the High Country, going up was no problem ever in 2nd just a bit quick going down.


    So to get what is approaching the low gearing of the TDi it requires the 29" tyre and 4.7 Diff, - 2789 RPM

    2789

    then its at 2986 rpm to Tour. Guessing this would be raucous and having to lose an extra inch and a half...

    Now sure the HDC does come into play, can appreciate the technology but wouldn't this work better if it does not have to come into play until later,
    its one of the reasons I want ATB's assisting the Traction Control, the Traction Control is still there but it comes into play a lot lot later.

    BlueToes
    Which of the programs are you running and do you have the uprated TC in the auto?

    Land Rover Discovery ECU Remap | Empire Tuning

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRT View Post
    Re engine braking, based on the ashcroft calculator just changing the tyre size to 32", the difference between the Tdi 5spd and TD5 Auto at 10kph in low range is 2834 RPM versus 1903 RPM

    Does this mean therefore that the Auto TC will not have locked (if it does at all in Low Range 1st!!!) - it is closer to the TDi Second which I found a little too fast in the High Country, going up was no problem ever in 2nd just a bit quick going down.


    So to get what is approaching the low gearing of the TDi it requires the 29" tyre and 4.7 Diff, - 2789 RPM

    2789

    then its at 2986 rpm to Tour. Guessing this would be raucous and having to lose an extra inch and a half...

    Now sure the HDC does come into play, can appreciate the technology but wouldn't this work better if it does not have to come into play until later,
    its one of the reasons I want ATB's assisting the Traction Control, the Traction Control is still there but it comes into play a lot lot later.

    BlueToes
    Which of the programs are you running and do you have the uprated TC in the auto?

    Land Rover Discovery ECU Remap | Empire Tuning
    None at this stage but depending on what you are after they will tune to suit.
    Discovery D2a 2004 TD5 auto (current)
    Discovery 1 V8 1996 manual (gone)
    Various series Land Rovers before moving to OZ

  8. #8
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    Torque converter locks up in third and fourth gear only, definitely not in first. But it can still engine brake well while unlocked.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pojir View Post
    Torque converter locks up in third and fourth gear only, definitely not in first. But it can still engine brake well while unlocked.
    But what about lockup in low range?
    MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
    MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    But what about lockup in low range?
    I've got a Jose map, I found engine and auto improved on steep descents, however I still need to use the handbrake to feather down steep technical sections. I wish I had a lower low range too.

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