And that is my experience with this car. A total novice on just about everything and quietly confident if/when I have too too it again!!Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
I expect many of us are in the same boat.
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And that is my experience with this car. A total novice on just about everything and quietly confident if/when I have too too it again!!Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
I expect many of us are in the same boat.
Definitely go the genuine VDO pump. I could not find one at the price last time.
It's it in a disco 2 it's easy to get at. I cut with a Stanley nice just on inside of the seats lining area. Makes it really easy to lift up and get at the metal plate.
Before you unclip any of the lines get some brake cleaner, cloth and old toothbrush and clean around the area. You will save your save a world of pain with dirt getting into fuel tank.
For some reason I prefer to do it on a empty low tank.
It will take about 1 to 2 hours to pull the old pump apart and give it a good clean then put it back to together again. It is a little fiddly but very doable. The second time around you can do the pump reco in about 30 mins. Always the same once you have done it once.
I'm no mechanic, but follow rave and various webpages / youtube. So if I can do it, so you can
Also you don't need to turn cap much when putting the pump back in. I think 1/⁴ to 1/2 a turn from memory.
I was thinking about the symptoms. Mine use to push more than 3500 rpm but just not go anywhere. When ever the car could not get over 3500 it had been MAF or waste gate modulator.
Give the age of the vehicle I think it was be good maintenance to replace the pump anyways
Fuel pump will push just enough to get the engine started and idle and run under low load. As soon as a fuel demand great than the failing pump can provide the car struggles. Changing a fuel pump is not difficult, go for the brand pump.
The pressure test kit arrived. I was unable to remove the temperature sensor, I did not have a spanner large enough. I spent a large amount of time dicking around with the test gear to get one that would fit on the FPR return hose. I turned the ignition on. The pressure was well below 4Bar. in fact the pressure was 0Bar. I tried to start the engine, it wouldn't start. I detached the pressure meter and turned the ignition on. No fuel flowed out. None, zip, nada! I checked the pump fuse F10. Looks good, swapped it with the trailer fuse F9 (IIRC). still no fuel. I even checked the fuel gauge, just over half.
I am going to buy the pump only part, VDO, of course as I am a bit short on cash. (But I did get a few more Tesla shares!)
It is on the bike to get to work until the pump arrives. With Aust Post being so wonderful, I could end up being very fit.
The FPR return line has a new O ring. A bunch came with the pressure kit.
I checked the voltage at the pump, I had 11.6V and 5.5V. I am guessing that the 5.5V is the sender supply.
Then I removed the pump and partially disassembled it. I am having a problem with this tab. Indicated by the screw driver.
Attachment 165698
I am finding hard to depress the tab and pull the top part away. I only have 2 hands. I am now having thinking time.
Attachment 165699
This shows one of three tabs that hold the upper section there are three of these, easy to remove. Also visible is a post that holds the spring, there are two of these.
Attachment 165700
This is one of the tabs that holds the top part down.
Attachment 165701
This is the other one. These are easy to undo, the third one is the pain.
Attachment 165702
Some videos talk about reusing the diesel. Not going to happen with this.
After 30 minutes or so..... I watched this Part 6 - Building an PS850 hatchback into a competitive race car. - YouTube to get some inspiration.
I went out to the pump and just pushed hard on the recalcitrant locking tab. Out it came.
I took this photo so that I got the terminals the correct way.
Attachment 165703
The I noticed that the terminals are a different size. This makes sense in a production line as it requires no thinking about what lead to connect to what terminal. This will speed production. Also there is a clamp on the green pipe, is that one of those that you squeeze to undo?
Final photo, there are two black pipes. I have to make sure that the pipes go on the correct part.
Attachment 165704
Now I have to wait until the pump arrives.
How did you remove the green pipe? Did you have a replacement one?Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyMortimer
My green pipe will rotate but does not want to come off.
Julian, it will be interesting to see how this pump performs. As after market pumps tend to screech their heads off after a few months, hence the recommendation in the traps has always been VDO pumps. If it stays quiet then certainly a cheap fix considering how much the VDO pumps have risen in price recently.
I have bought a VDO pump. Just the actual pump part.
I can recommend without fear an alternative made in germany which is verified by me and some friends, cheaper than VDO and working perfect, p/n SKFP-0160152Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares
The green pipe was very difficult to remove. Very hard. I pulled as hard as I could, to no avail. So I borrowed a scalpel handle and blade from work and slowly trimmed away the green pipe, until I could pull it off.
The pump section is meant to arrive on Wednesday or Thursday, according to Australia Post, but they did not specify which week!!
The build date on this unit was 9/03. Is this the pump that came with the car?
