Thread: td5 engine saver low water level alarm

Originally Posted by Bohica

Yes I'd like a picture. or 2.

Here you go, it's pretty basic in the way it works, but it has been totally reliable.

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I've got an Allisport tank with the coolant level switch waiting for me to fit it. All I need, I think, is a basic buzzer/flasher to wire up to it. I don't need the expense of the Redarc or anything similar. Does anybody have a suggestion for such a device?

Originally Posted by Metoikos13

I've got an Allisport tank with the coolant level switch waiting for me to fit it. All I need, I think, is a basic buzzer/flasher to wire up to it. I don't need the expense of the Redarc or anything similar. Does anybody have a suggestion for such a device?

Just make it yourself then. The circuit is very straight forward if you want. This would be a great starting point. If you want a buzzer you might be able to substitute the 330ohm and LED for the buzzer.

Originally Posted by Metoikos13

I've got an Allisport tank with the coolant level switch waiting for me to fit it. All I need, I think, is a basic buzzer/flasher to wire up to it. I don't need the expense of the Redarc or anything similar. Does anybody have a suggestion for such a device?

I got a loud buzzer from Jaycar, for under ten bucks IIRC. This could be wired in series with an LED. Wiring in parallel might be more failsafe but you'd have to check the effect it would have on the volume of the buzzer.

Thanks for the info guys. Auto electrics and I do not have a good relationship but I'll give it a go as it looks relatively simple - ha ha.

Lawrence

Lawrence, connect one wire from the reservoir to earth or negative battery terminal. Pass the other wire through the firewall and connect the LED and buzzer. Join the other side of the LED and buzzer together and connect to power, preferably ignition sourced. This is parallel. Alternatively, connect the LED and buzzer together, connecting the wire from the reservoir to one end and the other end to the power source. This is series. Of course, using either method you can add cable between components, to suit your chosen mounting points, as long as you use one or other of the aforementioned methods.
The advantage of parallel is that if one alarm fails, the other will still operate. Conversely, if in series and one component fails, the circuit is broken, rendering both components inoperative.
Before committing to either method, experiment across the battery to ensure the two components work as expected.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Lawrence, connect one wire from the reservoir to earth or negative battery terminal. Pass the other wire through the firewall and connect the LED and buzzer. Join the other side of the LED and buzzer together and connect to power, preferably ignition sourced. This is parallel. Alternatively, connect the LED and buzzer together, connecting the wire from the reservoir to one end and the other end to the power source. This is series. Of course, using either method you can add cable between components, to suit your chosen mounting points, as long as you use one or other of the aforementioned methods.
The advantage of parallel is that if one alarm fails, the other will still operate. Conversely, if in series and one component fails, the circuit is broken, rendering both components inoperative.
Before committing to either method, experiment across the battery to ensure the two components work as expected.

I wouldn't expect it to be able to flow enough electricity to make that work which is why the transister is needed in the circuit. The other resisters are just to adjust the sensitivity of the transistor.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I wouldn't expect it to be able to flow enough electricity to make that work which is why the transister is needed in the circuit. The other resisters are just to adjust the sensitivity of the transistor.

Not sure Simon, that's why I suggested a mock-up first. Obviously dependent upon each compont, but I doubt an LED would rob enough power to effect the buzzer. My biggest concern would be the current taking the easiest path, through the LED.