TD5 starter motor removal: Tool recommendations?

I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

I'm not 100% but I think the stud bottomed out the socket, so I had the extension only just in the socket rather than it installed properly. A deep socket I suspect is the way to go.

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Yes. I'll be shortening the stud while the transmission is out. Trouble with a deep socket is that it fouls on the 'shoulder' of the starter. Grrr.

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Originally Posted by mrs

I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)

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150mm?? Thanks. I am not near the car currently, but I want to get something before I go back. Prettv sure my extensions must be 140 and 160.....

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Originally Posted by Tins

Yes. I'll be shortening the stud while the transmission is out. Trouble with a deep socket is that it fouls on the 'shoulder' of the starter. Grrr.

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Ahhh, ok cool. Sounds like a good move.

also, its best to remove it first and install last.

something mechanical tradespersons develop fairly early on is the ability to do certain tasks without problems.

another good one is r&r fuel pressure regulator

the d2 has a number of tricky little items

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Originally Posted by ramblingboy42

also, its best to remove it first and install last.

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That flies in the face of all I learnt working on Series IIas. To undo the bolt/nut you wanted it was necessary to dismantle the rest of the car, something which could not be achieved without removing said bolt/nut first. I also experienced this phenomenon on FIATs. Rubber hands are also useful.

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Originally Posted by mrs

I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)

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I second mrs - 3/8 drive ratchet, standard socket and 150mm (6") extension.
I've done about 5 with that set up. Must add though that I did need about an 8" pipe cheeter bar on the ratchet handle on more than one occassion for the initial 'crack'.

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Originally Posted by Tins

150mm?? Thanks. I am not near the car currently, but I want to get something before I go back. Prettv sure my extensions must be 140 and 160.....

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150mm is the old 6", common size, just the right length (very critical as you want to clear the end of the starter but also whatever is behind - couple of years since I last did one so can't remember, maybe manifold)

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Originally Posted by mrs

150mm is the old 6", common size, just the right length (very critical as you want to clear the end of the starter but also whatever is behind - couple of years since I last did one so can't remember, maybe manifold)

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Manifold, engine mount, etc. None of my son's socket sets have a 6" extension. Seems the tool mobs make things for the Japanese car market. But I'll find one in my stuff at home.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

1/4” drive wobble bar and it will be out in minutes.

No word of a lie, I can pull it out, replace contacts and refit in under 30 min.

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You have a 15mm 1/4" drive socket or adaptor 3/8" to 1/4" or replaced nut with 13mm?

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Nothing is straight forward on them! When I was replacing the injector O-ring and washer the other week, I really didn't expect to be pulling the headlights out. :lol2:

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Headlights out for injector washers Slunnie?

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Originally Posted by mrs

I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

I second mrs - 3/8 drive ratchet, standard socket and 150mm (6") extension.
I've done about 5 with that set up. Must add though that I did need about an 8" pipe cheeter bar on the ratchet handle on more than one occassion for the initial 'crack'.

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X3, and as Tombie remarked, about 30 minutes.