Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 38

Thread: TD5 starter motor removal: Tool recommendations?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    151
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,174
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    I'm not 100% but I think the stud bottomed out the socket, so I had the extension only just in the socket rather than it installed properly. A deep socket I suspect is the way to go.
    Yes. I'll be shortening the stud while the transmission is out. Trouble with a deep socket is that it fouls on the 'shoulder' of the starter. Grrr.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,174
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by mrs View Post
    I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)
    150mm?? Thanks. I am not near the car currently, but I want to get something before I go back. Prettv sure my extensions must be 140 and 160.....
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    14,133
    Total Downloaded
    99.87 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Yes. I'll be shortening the stud while the transmission is out. Trouble with a deep socket is that it fouls on the 'shoulder' of the starter. Grrr.
    Ahhh, ok cool. Sounds like a good move.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The new Gold Coast, after ocean rises,Queensland
    Posts
    13,204
    Total Downloaded
    0
    also, its best to remove it first and install last.

    something mechanical tradespersons develop fairly early on is the ability to do certain tasks without problems.

    another good one is r&r fuel pressure regulator

    the d2 has a number of tricky little items

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,174
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by ramblingboy42 View Post
    also, its best to remove it first and install last.


    That flies in the face of all I learnt working on Series IIas. To undo the bolt/nut you wanted it was necessary to dismantle the rest of the car, something which could not be achieved without removing said bolt/nut first. I also experienced this phenomenon on FIATs. Rubber hands are also useful.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Normanhurst, NSW
    Posts
    10,258
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by mrs View Post
    I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)
    I second mrs - 3/8 drive ratchet, standard socket and 150mm (6") extension.
    I've done about 5 with that set up. Must add though that I did need about an 8" pipe cheeter bar on the ratchet handle on more than one occassion for the initial 'crack'.
    Roger


  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    151
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    150mm?? Thanks. I am not near the car currently, but I want to get something before I go back. Prettv sure my extensions must be 140 and 160.....
    150mm is the old 6", common size, just the right length (very critical as you want to clear the end of the starter but also whatever is behind - couple of years since I last did one so can't remember, maybe manifold)

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,174
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by mrs View Post
    150mm is the old 6", common size, just the right length (very critical as you want to clear the end of the starter but also whatever is behind - couple of years since I last did one so can't remember, maybe manifold)
    Manifold, engine mount, etc. None of my son's socket sets have a 6" extension. Seems the tool mobs make things for the Japanese car market. But I'll find one in my stuff at home.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Nirvana near Albany W.A.
    Posts
    2,480
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    1/4” drive wobble bar and it will be out in minutes.

    No word of a lie, I can pull it out, replace contacts and refit in under 30 min.
    You have a 15mm 1/4" drive socket or adaptor 3/8" to 1/4" or replaced nut with 13mm?

    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Nothing is straight forward on them! When I was replacing the injector O-ring and washer the other week, I really didn't expect to be pulling the headlights out.
    Headlights out for injector washers Slunnie?


    Quote Originally Posted by mrs View Post
    I've always used a 3/8" 150mm extension (non wobble is easiest to line up with nut)
    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    I second mrs - 3/8 drive ratchet, standard socket and 150mm (6") extension.
    I've done about 5 with that set up. Must add though that I did need about an 8" pipe cheeter bar on the ratchet handle on more than one occassion for the initial 'crack'.
    X3, and as Tombie remarked, about 30 minutes.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!