Vid freezes my browser for some reason. I'll try again tomorrow after it's had a sleep.
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Vid freezes my browser for some reason. I'll try again tomorrow after it's had a sleep.
Thanks. That vid shows it pretty well. Why didn't the chimes work in the first place?
Ok, back to the battery box... The one I have was designed primarily for the Optima D34s. I do not want to go that route again. Anyone recommend a similar size batt that would be a better choice? Bunging the two next two each other seemed like a good idea back then...now, not so much. The car isn't going to be doing a lot of extended touring, if any. At most a week, with power requirements for a solo person.
Hi Tins, try these.
SSB HVT50D
This is a 60Ah cranking/deep cycle battery.
It is a fraction higher than the Yellowtop but otherwise the same size.
Mine is a 2000. It doesn't chime for CDL engagement, but it does for a number of other things. HDC, SLS ( even though SLS is no longer fitted and the BCU knows this...).
BTW, I know this.. I like that I still have TC, and CDL as well, but I can disable the electronic nanny when I want to.
The ARB battery tray had a heat shield/battery hold down to suit AFAIR a 40AH Exide battery. The end shield held down the battery at the bottom.
I have modified mine to accept a 750CCA XDINHDMF to replace a Optima Yellow top which lasted 3 years but still holds 12.6-7 volts. I use that battery as my starting battery with a 120AH AGM in the original battery position.
I have made a heat shield from stainless steel also covered with reflective tape .
I have also polished my turbo heat shield.
So far no problems with the wet battery after about 6-8 months. It has a 3 year warranty so if it lasts that long I will be happy as at $200 from Bunnings much cheaper than an Optima and stronger in reserve capacity.
Regards PhilipA
Yes of course and it came up Beyutiful.Quote:
....you polished the inside to reflect the heat back onto the turbo I expect.
Regards PhilipA