Thread: 3d printer

Thanks all if theses could be printed I would be very interested in getting a left and right side .

3D Printed Drip Rail Finishers - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

i know nothing about printing, but found this it has a couple of files.

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

Nice. In ASA?
I've only used ABS to date.
The support required looked scary when I first saw the model!
If printing in ABS I would delete off the bottom leg and print the two pieces separately, which would save a heap of support. ABS is very easy to join pieces using Acetone as a solvent.

true.. strength would be my worry...

abs you need to allow for shrinkage and warping etc,

asa is way better with less fumes but is dearer and better in the sun so i use it for my stuff these days

i can thin the supports down as i tweak it, especially when i print it on the prusa

cheers

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

3D Printed Drip Rail Finishers - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

i know nothing about printing, but found this it has a couple of files.

they are what we already have... sadly

cheers

Originally Posted by incisor

true.. strength would be my worry...

abs you need to allow for shrinkage and warping etc,

asa is way better with less fumes but is dearer and better in the sun so i use it for my stuff these days

i can thin the supports down as i tweak it, especially when i print it on the prusa

cheers

I've had ABS printed roof bar bases on my D4 for over 6 years now with no noticable UV degredation. Would be better still if I'd painted them.

I've found managing warping much easier now I'm printing on a glass bed. No lifting when hot, and it releases nicely when cooled.

I tried a roll of PETG for better strength etc but there was no way I could get any bed adhesion. So went back to ABS as an ABS slurry on glass is so easy to manage....

At the moment I'm printing off a 160-89mm dia reducer for the airfilter box for my series FC build.
Cheers,

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

I've found managing warping much easier now I'm printing on a glass bed. No lifting when hot, and it releases nicely when cooled.

I tried a roll of PETG for better strength etc but there was no way I could get any bed adhesion.

try windex... works a treat even with abs on my gear at least

i have no trouble with petg adhesion, a tad too much most of the time

have glass bed on the ender for the moment but smooth and textured pei magnetic sheets are due this week..

prusa already has that..

tpu gives me the most trouble but am almost on top of it now and am test printing some series wiper motor gaskets to see where i am at...

what sort of printer you got ?

Originally Posted by incisor

try windex... works a treat even with abs on my gear at least

i have no trouble with petg adhesion, a tad too much most of the time

have glass bed on the ender for the moment but smooth and textured pei magnetic sheets are due this week..

prusa already has that..

tpu gives me the most trouble but am almost on top of it now and am test printing some series wiper motor gaskets to see where i am at...

what sort of printer you got ?

Windex, haven't heard of that one. I'll look it up.
I've got a Balco which is a prusa knockoff.
I've burnt through a couple of boards so now run a relay for the bed heater. I would have put kilometres of filament through it. It just keeps going...

Originally Posted by incisor

true.. strength would be my worry...

abs you need to allow for shrinkage and warping etc,

asa is way better with less fumes but is dearer and better in the sun so i use it for my stuff these days

i can thin the supports down as i tweak it, especially when i print it on the prusa

cheers

This guy reckons the way you print parts makes a difference, like wood grain. DIY Dash board rail with 3D printed mounts for Land Rover Discovery 3 / LR3 - YouTube