Driveshaft Advice

Thanks for all the advice guys!

Sounds like the driveshafts are all good. Would like to replace them at some point, for piece of mind (as mentioned), but if that build up of grease is actually a good thing then it doesn't look like I need to stress too much about it as that was my main concern...

I did give them a good shake and they essentially didn't move at all, but car was not jacked up, so will try that again next time I've got it up.

I might try and clean that build up of grease off though. Will just some de greaser spray and then a pressure hose be fine? Should I worry about re greasing them via the grease nipples after that? Or will they be fine, assuming they were greased fairly recently anyway? Which I believe they were...

As for the vibrations, I'm still trying to diagnose but sounds like engine mounts are the likely culprit. Its an Auto, although one interesting side note is that it has a TDI badge on the back, not a TD5. Despite my serial number showing that it has a TD5 engine. Is that common?

Anyway it has the usual vibrations (I'm assuming) of an old diesel 4wd in park and neutral but another level of it kicks in when I shift into drive. Seems to idle fine though. Revs are very consistent, no clicking or clacking noises ever, no knocking. So seems to be firing evenly. The only change in engine noise ever is that the car does some chugging is when it's still a bit cold and I take my foot off the accelerator after a long climb up a hill. That usually disappears after it's warmed up though.

Thanks again for all the help. Really appreciate it. Absolutely loving the disco so far!

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Originally Posted by LandRohan

As for the vibrations, I'm still trying to diagnose but sounds like engine mounts are the likely culprit. Its an Auto, although one interesting side note is that it has a TDI badge on the back, not a TD5. Despite my serial number showing that it has a TD5 engine. Is that common?

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Did they fit a Discovery 1 Tdi rear door? Does it have a key hole in the rear door? A Discovery 2 Td5 rear door shouldn't have a keyhole. Unless it has had a repair..

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Did they fit a Discovery 1 Tdi rear door? Does it have a key hole in the rear door? A Discovery 2 Td5 rear door shouldn't have a keyhole. Unless it has had a repair..

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I don't think the doors are interchangeable, only the skin is common.

A Tdi is a four cylinder, Td5 obviously a five. Impossible to confuse the two.

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

I don't think the doors are interchangeable, only the skin is common.

A Tdi is a four cylinder, Td5 obviously a five. Impossible to confuse the two.

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Hmmm, there you go.

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Originally Posted by LandRohan;[URL="tel:3093090"

3093090[/URL]]Thanks for all the advice guys!

Sounds like the driveshafts are all good. Would like to replace them at some point, for piece of mind (as mentioned), but if that build up of grease is actually a good thing then it doesn't look like I need to stress too much about it as that was my main concern...

I did give them a good shake and they essentially didn't move at all, but car was not jacked up, so will try that again next time I've got it up.

I might try and clean that build up of grease off though. Will just some de greaser spray and then a pressure hose be fine? Should I worry about re greasing them via the grease nipples after that? Or will they be fine, assuming they were greased fairly recently anyway? Which I believe they were...

As for the vibrations, I'm still trying to diagnose but sounds like engine mounts are the likely culprit. Its an Auto, although one interesting side note is that it has a TDI badge on the back, not a TD5. Despite my serial number showing that it has a TD5 engine. Is that common?

Anyway it has the usual vibrations (I'm assuming) of an old diesel 4wd in park and neutral but another level of it kicks in when I shift into drive. Seems to idle fine though. Revs are very consistent, no clicking or clacking noises ever, no knocking. So seems to be firing evenly. The only change in engine noise ever is that the car does some chugging is when it's still a bit cold and I take my foot off the accelerator after a long climb up a hill. That usually disappears after it's warmed up though.

Thanks again for all the help. Really appreciate it. Absolutely loving the disco so far!

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Why remove the corrosion protection?

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I might try and clean that build up of grease off though. Will just some de greaser spray and then a pressure hose be fine?

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No it will not.
Just leave it.
The only problem that can be caused by too much grease is that the splines can be overgreased and lock up at less than full compression.
Old seals on a UJ will not like pressure washers or degreaser. The grease can be washed out.
When you consider that most Double Cardans fail from just the aircon drain dripping on them you can get the picture.
Regards PhilipA
If you insist on clean Ujs(balls) then just wipe them over with a rag.

As Philip has said, wipe them clean with a rag. Excess grease will attract dirt that quickly turns into a grinding paste.

What AK83 said is good advise. When changing the doughnut the spiggot in the diff and the bush in the tailshaft should be changed.

I removed my inner bush using a die grinder and grinding away one side of bush.

I got sick of changing doughnuts so I got a tailshaft and diff flange from a RR Classic and got rid of it.

Both my D1and D2 have this mod done.

As for your rear tailshaft in the pics, all looks ok to me. However, the best was to check uni's is to remove the shaft.

And has been stated the front one is what really needs regular checking. I know of one that showed no symptoms and let go, destroying the auto transmission in the process.

I have a Tom Woods front shaft in mine. They are very pricey, but when I am in they middle of nowhere, it is piece of mind that I am unlikely to be stranded with a hole in my Transmission.

As for relocating air con drains. I don't subscribe to this theory. We regularly drive through rivers and drive on rainy days. Surely this is no different to water from air con.

And as others have said, your vibration at idle is probably engine mounts. If you don't use expensive genuine ones, you fix won't last long.

For the sake of about 300MM each side of black irrigation tube and a bit of super glue, I do not see why you wouldn't relocate the aircon drains.
Mine didn't have the mod when I bought the car 7 years ago and I immediately did the mod. One trunnion on my double Cardan recently went at 215Kk. I bought the car with 134KK. I know that this doesn't prove my point but I am being honest. I think some water damage had been done by 134KK on the original shaft but it then lasted quite a while.
I have never had a problem with my XYZ switch.
On the other hand I advised a friend to do it after he had done 3 front driveshafts in about 50KK. He thought it had been done until he looked, and he has now done the mod.
Regards PhilipA

Ok, only rub them down with a rag it is! Makes sense that you want to keep the grease of course but that front U joint looks like it's collected so much dirt that it's slowly turning into cement... So will clear some of it away at least... I'll try and check that the centre spherical joint is greaseable too. Would love to replace with a tom woods at some point but will have to wait until I've got some more cash lying around. Also looks like tom woods aren't making them at the moment due to unavailability of the weld yoke so not sure I could get one if I wanted to...

As for the rear door, no key hole, so the TDI badge still doesn't make sense. It's definitely a TD5 engine. I'll probably just remove that one and replace it with a TD5 badge at some point... Weird tho...

Engine mounts, I'm tossing up whether to try and replace myself or not. They're hard to get a good look at without removing parts so can't be 100% certain that they're shot but if I'm doing it myself I might as well replace them if I'm gonna get all the way in there. Just concerned about finding the right place to jack the engine up from. Obviously a winch would be better but thats a whole thing onto itself. And if that's the only way to do it then I'd just as soon pay a mechanic as it's probably pretty unlikely that I'll use a winch again... Either way, should I definitely use genuine engine mounts? They look to be a whopping $242 each from british auto parts while aftermarket ones are just $75 at bearmach... Pretty huge disparity...

Oh and looks like the air con has already been re routed. The air con water leaks from a new looking plain black pvc pipe that's been zip locked to the frame on one side, away from the U joints. I'll investigate further but my initial thought it that it's probably already been done...

Thanks again for all the advice!