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Thread: Soft Brake Pedal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Bundaberg, QLD
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    Soft Brake Pedal

    So the other day i drove over to my parents house brakes where fine. On the way home stopped at 3 traffic lights brakes were also fine, then had to slow down for a turn and the pedal was soft and only had brakes at the very bottom of the pedal and minimal braking at that. So i nursed it home ( was only a few blocks away) and checked the fluid, it was full. No leaks anywhere, vacuum lines all appear to be fine.

    Master Cylinder was replaced in Feb 2018 along with all new steel braided brakes lines, pad and rotors and they have been brilliant ever since.

    Atm it has pedal it just super soft and spongy, pedal returns to the top without help. Pedal is spongy with the car on or off. I put the nanocom on it had zero faults. Just after some ideas, to me it seems like it needs a bleed but just seems odd to work for years than just play up like this without leaks ect.
    2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
    2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
    Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
    steel rear bar
    7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
    265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
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    FNQ
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    maybe caliper bolts? although I would have thought a shuttle valve fault would be triggered. but then again the shuttle valve setup is pretty poor.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    Bundaberg, QLD
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    yeah i thought it may have been the slides too. I am fairly confident that i did grease them, but the car gets driven twice a week so my have stuck from lack of use. Hopefully i get some time this weekend to have a look at them.
    2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
    2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
    Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
    steel rear bar
    7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
    265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    west of Transylvania
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    Hi, if you are 100% certain that there's no leak and the pedal is soft even with engine off the master cylinder seems very suspect but better double check for a leak while somebody pushes the pedal, strangely the level in the tank doesnt drop right away even with a major leak, happned to me while it leaked from a hose only under pressure, it was a quite new braided hose
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Bundaberg, QLD
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    master cylinder does seem to be the most logical place to start but i changed it 4 years ago would have thought it would have lasted longer than that though. It was full the other day when i checked and only popped my head under to look for leaks so i will have a better look there too. Cheers for the input
    2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
    2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
    Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
    steel rear bar
    7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
    265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Bundaberg, QLD
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    ok checked for leaks all good, i opened Rear passenger side bleed screw and got the misses to pump to the pedal and it barely dribbles out while she is pumping it. So i am fairly confident its the master cylinder. Thanks for all input
    2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
    2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
    Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
    steel rear bar
    7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
    265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Bundaberg, QLD
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    ok so new master cylinder turned up and i installed it and it does exactly the same thing. I bled the master cylinder and it has fluid coming out, but i get barely a dribble at any of the nipples, the rears are slightly more than the front. I even hooked the nanocom up and did a power bleed, the pump runs but next to nothing comes out the bleed nipples. Also the old master cylinder after removing seemed to be in working condition too. So what else would cause a system to not build pressure. Before i changed the master cylinder i had minimal brakes, now i have nothing other than handbrake.
    2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
    2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
    Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
    steel rear bar
    7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
    265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2021
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    Mackay
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    I posted in an earlier thread about my ABS modulator failing which created the exact opposite condition i.e. the brakes looked on and stayed locked on for the two weeks it took me to organise and install a replacement modulator. Caused by a shonky seller "forgetting" to mention he'd put something in the brake fluid other than brake fluid. Even though he'd rebuilt all the calipers and installed a new master cylinder and flushed the fluids, this had also caused the modulator seals to swell and jam the first time traction control kicked in. Considering there's 8 valves in the D2 modulator, this was no mean feat.

    Oil in the brake fluid is a very potent destroyer of seals. I've since replaced the clutch cylinders and the master cylinder was obviously replaced before the flush as it's dicey now too. Fortunately I had the PO supply a replacement for this.

    The modulator is easy to diagnose, just crack the unions to the calipers at the modulator one a t a time and see if there is pressure there when the pedal is pressed. If not, you've found the culprit and if there is it's the rubber hoses and/or calipers.

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