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Thread: D2 Floor Jack advice

  1. #1
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    D2 Floor Jack advice

    Hi,

    So I recently bought a 3tonne floor jack and 4 x 3tonne axel stands but I don't feel like I'm jacking the car up in the best way yet.

    What I've been doing is jacking up one tyre at a time, from the radius arms and then dropping my stand underneath and lowering. Which is fine for the first two front wheels but when I get to the back wheels the car seems pretty unstable.

    Is there a good place to jack both rear tyres from at the same time? So I can avoid the side to side weight shifts?

    I know some people jack from the diffs but these are off centre as well which worries me...

    Is jacking from the tow bar frame (Where the centre circle in picture attached is) an option or a terrible idea?

    I am trying to jack pretty high, so that I've got some good clearance under there, maybe I should just raise the car in smaller increments... but also that was the whole point of buying the floor jack...
    Anyway thanks in advance for the advice!

    IMG_0589.jpg

  2. #2
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    I pack under the ball and jack from there.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  3. #3
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    I reckon jacking from the towbar will be suss because you need to raise it so high to get tyres off the ground.
    As you raise the body higher, it moves in an arc so creates a more dangerous situation in terms of stability.

    I raise my(D1) from the diff, and the offset diff, and hence list this creates when raising hasn't really been a problem.
    I usually only need a couple of inches of air between tyres and concrete.

    Are you using the axle stands on the axles or somewhere on the body?
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    You should be able to jack from as close to the centre of the axle housing as you can. The pumpkin means you need to be a little offset but the car should still balance well enough. Obviously do with caution and take it slowly.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I reckon jacking from the towbar will be suss because you need to raise it so high to get tyres off the ground.
    As you raise the body higher, it moves in an arc so creates a more dangerous situation in terms of stability.

    I raise my(D1) from the diff, and the offset diff, and hence list this creates when raising hasn't really been a problem.
    I usually only need a couple of inches of air between tyres and concrete.

    Are you using the axle stands on the axles or somewhere on the body?
    That's why I pack under the towball, starting to lift with the jack in the lowest possible position, making sure the castors are in the straight ahead, trailing position.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  6. #6
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    Just lift at the pumpkin on the diff.
    Never, ever, had a problem doing this.

    In fact did it just the other day to drop the D2 on stands and pull the rear diff centre out.

    20 seconds, 2 stands, lower. That simple.

  7. #7
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    So know I now.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  8. #8
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    I've been jacking under the diff for years.

    I just jack it until the lowest side is at required height, put a jack stand under the axle, lower onto it and then slowly lower the high side onto a jack stand.

    As for your tow bar question. Yes it is ok to lift at tow bar, but as has been stated, you will have to lift the body a long way to get wheels off the ground.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  9. #9
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    There is a bar available in UK that slots into the hole where the cup on a 2 tonne jack slots and it has a threaded cup on the other end so that you can jack under the diff and the axle lifts straight.
    I wish they were available here but beyond my welding skills.
    You need pretty substantial square tube with a tube that is welded both sides at the jack end and offset a bit so you can place the cup in, and a threaded tube at the other end with a screw in a sleeve that passes through the square tube.
    Here it is
    (1) Sealey X137 3 Tonne Cross Beam Adaptor - YouTube

    Anyone want to make one?
    I would be a buyer.
    Regards PhilipA

  10. #10
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    Same

    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Just lift at the pumpkin on the diff.
    Never, ever, had a problem doing this.

    In fact did it just the other day to drop the D2 on stands and pull the rear diff centre out.

    20 seconds, 2 stands, lower. That simple.

    Started with the Arms but did not get enough height to fully extend the stands and do the diffs, on the pumpkin and full height with good room for the diffs.
    2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
    2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
    1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
    1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil

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