D2 Bottle Jack Replacement

So I had some success in getting the thing apart without breaking anything. I stumbled across a clip online to use olive oil to rejuvenate o-rings and it worked for the outer piston o-ring.

I put the whole thing back together, and now the inner small cylinder's leaking in the middle.

So, how does one take that bit apart! :-) The link with the instruction don't seem to cover that bit...

I managed to get the whole thing apart and thought I'd share my experiences. Here's my process:

1) Take filler hole plug out and drain oil. Used small screwdriver, wiggled in at side of plug, push all the way through and pivot bung out.
2) Undo the sealing screw. Used a punch and tapped gently. Then screwed off by hand.
3) Remove top v-part from inner cylinder. Placed jack in loose vice and used punch to tap in middle. That part then comes off easily.
4) Removed the main "bottle" part (plastic) with a filter removal pliers. Slide the whole thing off.
5) Placed piece of bicycle tubing over the main metal cylinder and used waterpump pliers to loosen and turn out. Any damage can be easily smoothed by using needle files.
6) Remove the inner cylinder from the outer by tapping with a punch. It comes out easily at the bottom.
7) Check seals and clean.

In my situation, the top o-ring of the inner cylinder was broken. Bought a bog of o-rings at Supercheap, but none worked. Found a set on RS that appears to have the same measurements.
"RS PRO Nitrile Rubber O-Ring, 19mm Bore, 21.6mm Outer Diameter". I haven't ordered it yet, but the measurements are similar to what I took when the thing was open.

Also, the outer cylinder's o-ring could use a replacement. I'll do the measurements next time it's open. (Unless someone has that handy, as I put mine together again pending the arrival of the o-rings...)

Hope this helps.

Cheers.
Ray

Attachment 173267Attachment 173268

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rymnd

So I had some success in getting the thing apart without breaking anything. I stumbled across a clip online to use olive oil to rejuvenate o-rings and it worked for the outer piston o-ring.

I put the whole thing back together, and now the inner small cylinder's leaking in the middle.

So, how does one take that bit apart! :-) The link with the instruction don't seem to cover that bit...

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You cannot rejuvenate an oring.
What you have done is make it swell which then weakens it.

I am going throught the same excercise to try to stop my jack emptying its oil into the compartment by the battery.

The seal in the picture that Rymnd posted is in a bad way. It should be what I think is called a 'slider seal' that sits on top a an o-ring (in the same groove) acting as an 'energiser'.

These are photos of the seal and the o-ring from my jack, which might help identify a replacement seal. The dimensions of the seal (as best as I can measure it) are ID=0.735", OD=0.885" Width=0.123"

Attachment 173288 Attachment 173287

I have measured most of the o-rings, and they seem to be BS1806 series, rather than metric sizes which I would have expected in an Italian jack. I have ordered some replacements and once they arrive, if I can confirm that they are the correct size, I will post a list of their sizes and positions.

Regards, Neil

Neil. Please measure the groove ID, groove width and the bore diameter that the seal goes into.

I just brought a 10 ton bottle jack fits where the old one was lifts like a charm.

What’s the make? Where did you buy? I got one last week from Autobarn that was supposed to fit, measurement wise, but didn’t.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by laney

I just brought a 10 ton bottle jack fits where the old one was lifts like a charm.

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Thanks Tombie,

The measurements for the groove at the bottom of the inner piston (that the o-ring and 'slider' seal fit into) are:

Bore ID	Width	Bore
14.50	3.25	22.00 mm
0.571	0.131	0.866 inch

I take back what I said about these seals not being metric. This has got to be a metric seal?
Any leads for a replacement slider seal welcome.

For reference, the grooves for the plain o-rings which seal the two pistons are:

Desc	Bore ID	Groove Width	Bore
Inner piston, wiper o-ring at top, installed into groove in top of outer piston. Groove depth (1.54) measured (and bore calulated)	19.00	2.75	22.08
Outer piston, main seal at bottom. Sits above a wear ring in same groove which is 1.30 wide, total groove width is 5.10	27.40	3.80	32.00
Outer piston, wiper o-ring at top, installed inside groove in top of cylinder. Groove depth (1.82) measured and bore calulated	28.30	3.50	31.96

Any suggestions for the o-ring sizes would be welcome. I will see if a 19x2 fits the first one, and 27x2.5 for the other two in this table.

My bottle jack leaked out of the top piston seal and in the instructions on repairing the bottle jack it stated:
"If the jack creeps down and/or forces fluid out of the top of the bottom lift piston, then the top piston seal is faulty and the jack is typically not easy to repair at the handyman level so is not covered in this instruction."
So I stored my jack and went back to an old Lightburn 2 stage lift jack with much reduced lift range and glued a block of wood on the base.
I've been watching this discussion to see if I can get information to repair the top piston seal and return to using my original bottle jack. Can contributors suggest what might need to be added to these instructions so that the top piston seal can also be repaired?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Defender08

My bottle jack leaked out of the top piston seal and in the instructions on repairing the bottle jack it stated:
"If the jack creeps down and/or forces fluid out of the top of the bottom lift piston, then the top piston seal is faulty and the jack is typically not easy to repair at the handyman level so is not covered in this instruction."
So I stored my jack and went back to an old Lightburn 2 stage lift jack with much reduced lift range and glued a block of wood on the base.
I've been watching this discussion to see if I can get information to repair the top piston seal and return to using my original bottle jack. Can contributors suggest what might need to be added to these instructions so that the top piston seal can also be repaired?

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Because hydraulic bottle jacks usually (often) end up leaking (and I don't trust hydraulics not to fail when you least expect it), I have always replaced them with a Landcruiser/Prado type wind up bottle jack.
Not a lot harder to get into place (being slightly taller than the D2 bottle jack), but they cannot fail and are fairly cheap, and readily available second hand.