Viscous fan tools

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13th November 2021, 06:37 PM
mylesaway

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinggu

Well, no sound from the fuel pump. That gizmo on the passenger side firewall, round with a rubbery flat top....... that's the fuel cut off? Have not found how to reset it by pressing from underneath. Am i in the right place?

The loom is wet and oily and so is the bottom of the box the ECU sits in. If oil's got in there is it RS?

Can I do any harm with degreaser, water jet and air blast to dry it out?

Looks like I'm up fro a loom but would like get it running again while I wait.

Sorry, I was wrong...

Press the rubber at the top of the 'fuel cut off' switch...and then see if the fuel pump runs.
13th November 2021, 08:20 PM
mylesaway

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinggu

Well, no sound from the fuel pump. That gizmo on the passenger side firewall, round with a rubbery flat top....... that's the fuel cut off? Have not found how to reset it by pressing from underneath. Am i in the right place?

The loom is wet and oily and so is the bottom of the box the ECU sits in. If oil's got in there is it RS?

Can I do any harm with degreaser, water jet and air blast to dry it out?

Looks like I'm up fro a loom but would like get it running again while I wait.

Has anyone removed the orange rubber seal from the RED plug at the ECU?
The guys that fitted my first upgraded ECU did this....it helps drain the oil away from the ECU.

I normally use 'brake cleaner' in a spray can to clean my plugs. Works better than anything else I've used. Can be quiet aggressive on some materials so take care.

You'll have to do the plug at the front of the head as well.
13th November 2021, 09:49 PM
davros

Have fun! Don’t hesitate to ask more queries, this is the most helpful forum out there. From DJI drones to my Ford Ranger, time and time over I just get the old, “Oh no! Buy a new one”. This is the forum that gives solutions and as a matter of fact drives me to find solutions in other walks of life when someone advocates landfill over fixing something and using dollars instead of neurones!
13th November 2021, 10:04 PM
davros

One thing I did that worked a treat was, instead of replacing the whole engine loom, use 7 core trailer wire to make a jumper.
Take off the rocker cover to replace the injection loom with another one. Cut the engine loom plug off. Use a pin/plastic strips/swearing to get the wires out of this engine loom-to-injection-loom plug and clean them up noting where they came from! Solder these on to the end of the trailer wiring and push them back into the plug. At the ECU end take out the wires, NOTE WHERE THEY COME FROM! and cut them off and like at the other end, pry open the metal plug things and solder them on the to ends of the trailer wire then push them back in. Voilà! You have jumped the oily wires and no need to take out the entire loom.
13th November 2021, 10:27 PM
davros

Quote:

Originally Posted by mylesaway

Has anyone removed the orange rubber seal from the RED plug at the ECU?
The guys that fitted my first upgraded ECU did this....it helps drain the oil away from the ECU.

I normally use 'brake cleaner' in a spray can to clean my plugs. Works better than anything else I've used. Can be quiet aggressive on some materials so take care.

You'll have to do the plug at the front of the head as well.

I removed it temporarily as circuit board cleaner etc. makes it swell up! But I put it back after the trailer wire ‘hack’!
14th November 2021, 11:25 AM
Tinggu

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobMichelle

Gday Pete
Not water, some have pulled ecu apart and cleaned out, I’m pretty sure there is a write up somewhere, normally just spray and leave standing on edge so it drips out. I reckon there a few posts on here with how to’s .
Regards Rob

Thanks Rob. I tried degreaser and the air gun yesterday. Today I'll have another go with metho. I'm tempted to have a look inside the ECU if I can find the little gizmo that fits the bolts. Hope you both doing well over there. Our old girl now 340K.
14th November 2021, 11:26 AM
Tinggu

Quote:

Originally Posted by mylesaway

Sorry, I was wrong...

Press the rubber at the top of the 'fuel cut off' switch...and then see if the fuel pump runs.

That makes sense now, thanks! Pity it didn't solve the prob!
14th November 2021, 01:27 PM
mylesaway

Test Injectors with Nanocom?

Have you tried to fire off the injectors with the Nanocom?

Fuel pump working?

If not....

Checked fuses and/or swapped over relays?

Just some thoughts..
14th November 2021, 10:23 PM
AK83

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinggu

Well, no sound from the fuel pump. .....

Sound from fuel pump in a td5 should be more of a whooshing/gurgling type sound .. it's very quiet when in new/good condition.

You should be able to run the fuel pump via the nanocom too.
Also, check battery volts with ign on II position. If your battery is 'on the way out' so to speak, it may not be strong enough to run the pump and or start engine at the same time .. maybe.

Next time it does this crank but no start problem .. try a fuel priming cycle before trying to start it again.
Assuming you don't know it .. ign on position II again, pump pedal fully 5 times, lift off and do nothing. I think check engine light comes on and you may hear the pump whooshing/gurgling from the driver seat.
If you have a multimeter handy, again, could be a good time to check battery for condition whilst the pump is priming.
15th November 2021, 11:54 AM
Tinggu

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK83

Sound from fuel pump in a td5 should be more of a whooshing/gurgling type sound .. it's very quiet when in new/good condition.

You should be able to run the fuel pump via the nanocom too.
Also, check battery volts with ign on II position. If your battery is 'on the way out' so to speak, it may not be strong enough to run the pump and or start engine at the same time .. maybe.

Next time it does this crank but no start problem .. try a fuel priming cycle before trying to start it again.
Assuming you don't know it .. ign on position II again, pump pedal fully 5 times, lift off and do nothing. I think check engine light comes on and you may hear the pump whooshing/gurgling from the driver seat.
If you have a multimeter handy, again, could be a good time to check battery for condition whilst the pump is priming.

Thanks Arthur. If the Nanocom can't communicate with the ECU can I use it test the fuel pump or the injectors firing? I would have thought not but maybe I'm wrong, I don't have very much working knowledge of the Nanocom. Likewise I don't know if it can give me a voltage without an active ECU......

I could detect no noise from the fuel pump, but if the ECU is up the creek with oil on the terminals I would expect the fuel pump to not work.....True or false?

I took the rocker cover off last night with a look to see what I need to do to change the injector loom. I've done over 100K kms without replacing it and couls find no mention in POs extensive receipts for work done, so I'm thinking to replace it as a matter of general maintenance as it is considered a consumable item. Good idea or Not?

The battery is on charge now. was 12.5 v at rest but that was after some serious cranking last few days. Once it is charged I will see what the voltage drop is when turning the key to II position and seeing what if anything happens. Thanks for the advice on the fuel priming cycle. New one on me so thanks for that! I'll give that a whirl.

I have cleaned the red and black terminals and immediate cabling of the ECU with metho and air gun. Also the plug under the rocker box and its cabling. There was afair bit of oil drained out of the ECU but as the advice is that oil in the ECU case is not an issue I will leave it alone. I got the screw out yesterday but could not shift the cover. Decided it was well glued in and not worth damaging for no good reason.

Now just waiting for the battery to come up to spec.........

Thank you all for your advice. Love this forum for its generous brains trust.

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