Smokey TD5 possible valve problem?

Hi all, just updating this with the weekends progress. So I checked timing, this was all spot on. Cam slot, timing chain links and the slot in the fly wheel all lined up. Next I reset the bump clearances on the injectors. Still smokey but it might be a bit better.

While I was underneath to check the flywheel timing slot, I noticed that the fuel pressure regulator was indeed leaking so this could indeed be the cause of the need for priming as Tins suggested. Has anyone had success with just replacing the pressure regulator part rather than the whole assembly? Like this one Land Rover Discovery TD5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Repair Kit BOSCH+W/Shop Manual | eBay

I had another thought, would crap old fuel give me a smoke problem? The fuel has been in there for quite a few years now. I might drain that and refill next step.

I guess any lack of integrity could cause the fuel system to need re priming all the time, not seen it where the fpr was causing it though tbh.

Old fuel? Again it could be, not seen it myself.

Have you actually got the engine up to operating temperature since you got back into fixing it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Designosaur

Hi all, just updating this with the weekends progress. So I checked timing, this was all spot on. Cam slot, timing chain links and the slot in the fly wheel all lined up. Next I reset the bump clearances on the injectors. Still smokey but it might be a bit better.

While I was underneath to check the flywheel timing slot, I noticed that the fuel pressure regulator was indeed leaking so this could indeed be the cause of the need for priming as Tins suggested. Has anyone had success with just replacing the pressure regulator part rather than the whole assembly? Like this one Land Rover Discovery TD5 Fuel Pressure Regulator Repair Kit BOSCH+W/Shop Manual | eBay

I had another thought, would crap old fuel give me a smoke problem? The fuel has been in there for quite a few years now. I might drain that and refill next step.

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As already mentioned, mine sat for years. Fuel in it was fine, car started instantly. ( not true, it started instantly AFTER I repaired the CPS wiring I had pinched in the bell housing when fitting the trans ), but a prime sequence ( fuel pump had been out ) car fired. Still does. Main issue with old fuel is the "algae" that builds up with moisture which can block things.

Left field, but did you put the injectors back the way that came out, that is #1 back to #1 position etc? IIRC they are location specific to the ECU.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shack

I guess any lack of integrity could cause the fuel system to need re priming all the time, not seen it where the fpr was causing it though tbh.

Old fuel? Again it could be, not seen it myself.

Have you actually got the engine up to operating temperature since you got back into fixing it?

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I got it up to about 70 yesterday, my nanocom has a problem with the touch screen and I didnt want to ship it back to Cyprus with all the shipping problems that were happening with covid. I will have to send it back. I can get to the first screen of each category but the bottom of the screen where you hit the scroll button doesnt work. I could only get to the first screen with temp and rpm etc. I couldn't get to injector balance. But no I have not taken it for a good run. I can drive it round the paddock a bit to get it a bit hotter if you think that will help.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tins

As already mentioned, mine sat for years. Fuel in it was fine, car started instantly. ( not true, it started instantly AFTER I repaired the CPS wiring I had pinched in the bell housing when fitting the trans ), but a prime sequence ( fuel pump had been out ) car fired. Still does. Main issue with old fuel is the "algae" that builds up with moisture which can block things.

Left field, but did you put the injectors back the way that came out, that is #1 back to #1 position etc? IIRC they are location specific to the ECU.

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Hi Tins, yes I was very careful with the injectors when I did the seals so I'm confident that they will be in the correct locations, and yes they are set for a location in the ECU. I changed the fuel filter a while ago and I put some fuel treatment in the other day in case of algae. I will get a new filter because hopefully it has filtered any crap.

When I did the injector seals it was not smoking like this. It then had a clutch problem and went back in the shed for a while. I finally found the clutch problem a couple of months ago (pin hole where the clutch line goes around the back of the engine) and started work on it again. I did the ball joints and then it did something to become smokey. I think it was at about the time that it started to need priming when it had not been started during the week but this has stretched out so long I dont remember very well.

Cheers
B

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Designosaur

I got it up to about 70 yesterday, my nanocom has a problem with the touch screen and I didnt want to ship it back to Cyprus with all the shipping problems that were happening with covid. I will have to send it back. I can get to the first screen of each category but the bottom of the screen where you hit the scroll button doesnt work. I could only get to the first screen with temp and rpm etc. I couldn't get to injector balance. But no I have not taken it for a good run. I can drive it round the paddock a bit to get it a bit hotter if you think that will help.

Cheers

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Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but did you try using some form of stylus on the Nanocom? I'm on my second one, and it hasn't changed for me, it often will not accept my finger input.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tins

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but did you try using some form of stylus on the Nanocom? I'm on my second one, and it hasn't changed for me, it often will not accept my finger input.

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yep, tried that, no joy unfortunately.

Those Bosch fpr repair kits are fine, just remember to access the bottom bolt through the wheel arch with a long socket extension, it makes the process a lot easier. Also do not overtighten, its easy to strip the thread.