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Thread: Rear Hub

  1. 24th December 2021, 07:47 AM #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discosux View Post
    me too, but obviously there's a reason.

    would love to know why.
    I am thinking something to do with the toothed (reluctance) ring.
    Maybe the the outer bearing race is inside a lip and is impossible to remove. You push on the inner bearing race, destroy the bearing and the outer race is still there. Although with dry ice/acetone, it may shrink enough to remove. I am waiting for mine to arrive so I can have a good look. I'd love to repair the old buggered one with new quality bearings.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
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  2. 24th December 2021, 08:22 AM #22
    lewy
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    perhaps they can be rebuilt by someone with the machinery and know how, at the price these are is it worth having a trade in\exchange going.
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  3. 24th December 2021, 02:36 PM #23
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    Theoretically, you need a press and a good quality bearing.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410
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  4. 27th December 2021, 11:44 PM #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Thanks! I'm about 280k, I'm guessing it wont be long. I hope yours is an easy fix.
    Its a very easy job. I did one a couple of years ago for a friend
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County
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  5. 28th December 2021, 12:09 AM #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discosux;[URL="tel:3126394"
    3126394[/URL]]me too, but obviously there's a reason.

    would love to know why.
    Because the assembly takes far less time to install and the “mechanic” has to do nothing to do except put the correct setting on the torque wrench. Last time I did bearings on the Ford the assy was cheap and the advice on the nut was “rattle it hard”. I don’t know why they bother training people these days.
    ​JayTee

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  6. 28th December 2021, 02:45 PM #26
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    The hub has arrived. It looks easier to press in the bearing(s) than remove.
    I'll have a crack at dismantling the old one with a view to replace the bearings.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410
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  7. 29th December 2021, 09:44 PM #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    The hub has arrived. It looks easier to press in the bearing(s) than remove.
    I'll have a crack at dismantling the old one with a view to replace the bearings.
    So what did you get and where from? I need to order one as mine is leaking.

    Mine has started leaking whilst the car has been sitting on my hoist for the past six months, doing a far too long engine transplant.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County
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  8. 30th December 2021, 11:01 AM #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    So what did you get and where from? I need to order one as mine is leaking.

    Mine has started leaking whilst the car has been sitting on my hoist for the past six months, doing a far too long engine transplant.
    ISLAND 4X4 UK. You need to order a hub nut as well.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410
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  9. 25th January 2022, 04:00 PM #29
    LyleC
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    What did everyone use for axle to hub loctite?

    So I am in the process on changing my leaking Left rear hub.
    I have a new hub from British4WD (in Tas) $233 + freight.
    260,000 km on the D2 but the stake nut looks like it was reused so age/brand of old hub is unknown.
    To my horror I found the stake nut was not bent in on the axle properly and barely tight.
    The axle came out of the hub easily as I was tapping the hub off the diff housing.
    I did have a slight 'cluck' sound many mornings when first backing out of the garage - maybe it was this axle spline clearance taking up.

    Anyway my question to the experienced is: What did you use for loctite on the axle splines?

    RAVE says Loctite 640. At $399 - $446 for 250ml that's not going to happen.
    An alternative that the Blackwoods website pops up is Loctite 2760 at $65 for 50ml so only slightly less per litre but a smaller bottle.

    I am a little worried that if the loctite wasn't right for the old hub, that may have allowed axle/hub movement and the nut to loosen, loose bearing pre-load and created the leak.
    D2 Rear hub.jpg
    RAVE says you need to press the axle out of the hub, which would be just to break the Loctite.
    At the moment I'll be looking for a $65 bottle of 2760.
    Interested in what everyone else has done, and how long it lasted.
    Cheers
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