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that's what I was thinking too.
As it seemed to work for a bit, it's probably confusing the ECU so ECU gives a certain fueling program.
Then, when it starts to fail, ECU responds to the now new temp parameters(which aren't real), probably causing the surging that the OP describes.
Then again, once ECU realises that the ECT sensor is dead, uses the fuel temp as a parameter instead .. so as OP said, drives normal.
Thanks for the assistance all. Will disconnect the sensor tomorrow see what happens and report back.
RE location, in the North East of Melbourne.
Sounds like a coolant sensor problem I would change the sensor and clean the plug if you don't have an after market temperature gauge installed I would also install one as the car temperature gauge is not a good guide as to the cars true temperature but I believe the car temperature gauge does talk to the ecu so when the red light comes on the car would think it is over heating.
So you won't be 'too far' from me .. if you ever want to get a nanocom connected to the vehicle ..Quote:
Originally Posted by CO011
Yeah, not just LRs, but I think most modern cars work this way. I know of one car/model that doesn't .. where temp gauge works in real time(Pug 307 Hdi) ... but yeah external temp gauge is handy to know how she's going so you can adapt your driving style for the conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by laney
Yep! on the red light in normal situations .. comes on once temp has reached XXX degrees C. No idea what the temp is for the TD5 .. I've never seen it get so hot where warning light comes on, but on the V8 I have .. at 119°C the red warning light comes on.
I think it was approx 117°C where the needle got into the red hot range, so warning lamp precedes the gauge needle anyhow.