Member
Question about D2s
Hey there D2 owners of Aulro, just have a few questions regarding 2000 model discovery 2s and D2s as a whole.
I currently own a 1996 300tdi discovery 1, I absolutely love this car and my dad and I have put a lot of time into putting a new head on the engine, replacing most of the cooling system and doing/adding a lot of improvements and such, annoyingly it has a fair bit of rust around the car, namely, roof (alpine windows), sills, inner guards etc,(not much in the rear end though) I had wanted to try and fix it but I just don't have the time and space to do it.
I have been looking into td5 discovery 2s, my dad has had 2 2003 td5s and absolutely loved them, I'm hoping that being a newer model they shouldn't have near as much rust, however I do worry about the longer overhang at the rear for 4wding, also worried about how complex they are in comparison to my 300tdi D1 and if they would be to complicated to fix yourself anywhere with limited supplies.
I have been looking for 2003/2004 td5 face lift models but they come at a higher price, I have found a few 2000 models that look alright though, I'm wondering if the 2000s are any good or if i should just save up and get a facelift.
If anyone has any Pros/Cons I should be aware of, or any advice at all, I would be very happy to know!
Sorry if this a muddled up mess, any advice at all is very much appreciated!
Thanks, Braedan
P.S, I'm aware of the 2002 diff lock situation so I'm not even bothering to look at those.
ChatterBox
SupporterFor sure you can sink some money into them, probably more expensive than a D1 to fix, but not much.
The engine is far more refined, with a bit of work they really go.
Overhang? I wouldn't worry too much, they are incredible off-road.
The pick would be the last of them with the later engine, auto, and if you get one with SLS and ACE... Sweet.
Shouldn't really be any rust issues.
Cheers
James
Master
SubscriberX2Originally Posted by shack
I have had a D1 300tdi and currently have a D2a Td5, both manual. While I loved the D1, comparing it to the D2a is like night and day. The longer cargo area is more useful and if the overhang is an issue for you, you can put a steel bar on the back and cut down the quarters. Although, I have never had any real problems with the back hanging up.
As for D2 vs D2a with cost as an issue, I would prioritise get one in good condition with a full service history. If that is a D2, the CDL is an upgrade although quite expensive these days. I went for the D2a because I wanted the bigger intercooler, the steel dowelled head and the factory CDL. The cost of those mods to a D2 closes the price gap some what.
Martin
The secret to happiness is to truly want what you already have
Oil leak?...Nah, sophisticated anti corrosion system!
'04 D2a TD5 Manual "Snowy" - Daily
'04 Def 90 TD5 "Hue" - New toy
'03 Def 90 TD5 - Son's toy
'16.5 D4 TDV6 - Gone
The MOD Father
My silver D2 came with a ten year factory rust warranty,, and when I sold it the only rust marks were on that plate on the firewall and two spots on the roof.
but if you are silly enough to drive one on the beach well......
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Member
Okay I'll keep that in mind, thanks.
Member
That seems fair enough, I don't do a heap of beach driving and always try clean up as soon after as I can.
ForumSage
Subscriber. Many beach trips in my D2 since it was new. Zero rust anywhere. Stay out of salt water and get your togs on when you come back and shove the hose in all orifices. Cheers
Swaggie
SubscriberI would not discount a 2002 (I have one).
They have the later ECU motor and intercooler, though you will probably want a Serck one anyway.
I fitted a CDL from a dismantled transfer case I bought for $200. The linkage was the most expensive bit at $500 for LR original including the sticker from a Melbourne wrecker.
I have been able to do all repairs and upgrades so far with the exception of resealing the front O ring on the transfer case, and that applies equally to all LT230s. I replaced the Auto transmission lines as a preventative measure as that is a show stopper. Also dropped sump and inspected and replaced oil pump bolt. replaced key fob covers several times and resoldered and replaced one keyfob microswitch. Routed hoses from aircon drains away from XYZ and Double Cardan joint. Injector seals and O rings, Fit Recaro seats,
The only failures I have had in 8 years are one alternator (from oil ex front camshaft plug), 2 front hubs, one Viscous fan bearing, replace dodgy battery terminals, infamous fuel manifold ( also done by mechanic in Kununurra but able to be done if at home), whoops one front driveshaft, water pump as preventative measure and hoses etc. Several pinion seals and output shaft seals and a rear output flange. Engine mounts, injector harness only once, FPR, glow plugs although they have never lit up. Biggest annoyance is that Brits never seem to be able to build an oil tight car with a couple of rocker gaskets and sump gaskets..
Prior to my buying, it had the alarm deactivated, and maybe a head gasket as mine has now done 226KK with no problem so far. In trying to find why the dash lit up and engine stopped a mechanic apparently decided it was the belt tensioner! It stopped on the way home and restarted when I twisted the battery terminals. LOL When I bought it the central locking did not work so replaced the receiver and all good since.
There are probably many other minor things I have done like reversing camera, CB, trailer wiring, electrics to rear for fridge
Most of the money on mine was spent on upgrades like Serck intercooler, snorkel, upgrade air input hoses, front engine pipe, free flow muffler, lift, I guess Nanocom, recently Polyaire bags, ECU reflash with Nanocom,
Regards PhilipA
Master
SupporterHaving had to move a D1 TDi on due to it being manual and my buggered left knee, I still regret having to. It just had a 2" lift and bull bar with 32"'s with camel cuts, but as you know they are great. Gutless as hell on the road but great in the bush. No way was I going a D1 auto with that motor. Remember telling the lady that bought it hit the speed humps hard, sort of wish I kept it.
TD5 not quite as charming but still the inherent qualities of the D1 with a modicum of refinement in the drivetrain. I'm not a great mechanic but have found the D2 actually easy to work on with the exception of the FPR which requires finger contortioning as it is tucked away so nicely (get someone else to do the front ball joints - I did with the D2a daily driver). Would never dream of trying to do the auto but having changed the head , all the gaskets of the attachments and full drivetrain, axles driveshaft brakes etc, take you time and you can do it.
SLS for mine is a no brainer, sure it requires attention as with any system, but with the overhang you can raise the back at the touch of a button another couple of inches... Rear metal bar changeover is a half hour job.
Even though I had an ACE failure due I found out to a pinhole leak, if you can get this, GET IT.
With the D2a it supposedly had a litany of problems which a mechanic listed down and would have represented about $3-4000 bill, with leaks attributed to all system etc. For roadworthy after a pressure wash of the engine bay, it required only the front ball joints and I replaced the steering arm as well just for good measure. Get it checked out by someone who genuinely understands, oil flows in mysterious ways around a D2...
Good luck and you will find this forum an unbelievable knowledge base for all known problems!!
2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks