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Thread: Upholding the reputation.

  1. 15th March 2022, 01:34 PM #11
    Markf
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Confirmed it's this hose. The rubber is in solid condition, the front sewage has failed.
    It's really, really bad news when your front "sewage" fails....

    I had the same sort of failure with the passenger side gearbox oil cooler pipe. Your failure won't be nearly as expensive as a gearbox rebuild.
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  2. 15th March 2022, 01:57 PM #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markf View Post
    It's really, really bad news when your front "sewage" fails....

    I had the same sort of failure with the passenger side gearbox oil cooler pipe. Your failure won't be nearly as expensive as a gearbox rebuild.
    Damned autocorrect!
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  3. 15th March 2022, 02:24 PM #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markf View Post
    It's really, really bad news when your front "sewage" fails....
    Better call a plumber, ay!
    'sit bonum tempora volvunt'

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  4. 15th March 2022, 02:47 PM #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saitch View Post
    Better call a plumber, ay!
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  5. 15th March 2022, 02:49 PM #15
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    What pressure is this hose working at? Seems EFI isn't simply EFI hose.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  6. 15th March 2022, 05:15 PM #16
    discorevy
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    AFAIK any hose that can be classified as EFI hose must have a rated working pressure of 100psi, therefore any EFI rated 3/8" hose will be fine ( not standard fuel hose ).
    If they're nit picking tell em it should conform to SAE J30 R9.
    working pressure on that line is 60psi
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  7. 15th March 2022, 06:33 PM #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    If you want to repair it and make it easier to change in the future, you'll need to get about 500mm of 3/8" EFI fuel hose and 4x EFI hose clamps to suit ( 10mm EFI fuel hose will do but its too loose a fit for my liking ), If you want to cheat, you can carefully saw or dremel the metal swage until near the pipe, then use some external opening circlip pliers to break the rest of the swage. ( be clean, no metal filings near fuel pipe )
    when you have removed the rest of the hose at both ends, fit the new hose over BOTH the ribbed sections of pipe using 2x hose clamps on each end with each clamp just behind each rib( this will make sense when you have the hose removed ).
    Done.
    From now on this hose can be replaced without having to **** about with the hidden 14mm pipe nut.

    Yes , just get someone to turn ignition to find it, but probably just press on the hose and it will crumble anyway
    I did this in the Carpark of Super Cheap, Raymond Terrace nearly 5 years ago! Upholding the reputation.Upholding the reputation.

    The hose is still fine, but I ultimately replaced the worm drive clamps with Oetiker clamps about 3 years ago as they look a bit neater.
    Not that anyone ever looks down in their past the inlet manifold....
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  8. 15th March 2022, 06:49 PM #18
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    What are you up to, tomorrow, Rick?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  9. 15th March 2022, 06:53 PM #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    AFAIK any hose that can be classified as EFI hose must have a rated working pressure of 100psi, therefore any EFI rated 3/8" hose will be fine ( not standard fuel hose ).
    If they're nit picking tell em it should conform to SAE J30 R9.
    working pressure on that line is 60psi
    I00 & 150 psi seem the most popular, so either will suffice.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  10. 15th March 2022, 07:52 PM #20
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    Upholding the reputation.

    Hose on the return only runs at 40 ish PSI
    Because of the bastard nut that is unreachable at the front, people get lazy and don’t replace the hose when the FPR is replaced
    Replace the hose as suggested above then change it every few years
    If needed you can easily remove the crimps with a die grinder just watch the grit
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