Looking to replace rear diff pinion seal

When my Salisbury diff started leaking (possibly because of a blocked breather), there was a slight groove where the seal had been running.

I was told that a thick gasket behind the new seal would move it out onto a fresh part of the flange.

A couple of hundred thousand km later it is still sealing perfectly.

Maybe you don't need a new flange even if the old one has a bit of a groove.

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Originally Posted by vnx205

When my Salisbury diff started leaking (possibly because of a blocked breather), there was a slight groove where the seal had been running.

I was told that a thick gasket behind the new seal would move it out onto a fresh part of the flange.

A couple of hundred thousand km later it is still sealing perfectly.

Maybe you don't need a new flange even if the old one has a bit of a groove.

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I don't have it out yet, but was thinking about ways to get the seal to line up elsewhere IF I see a groove on the flange. If I was in the city it would be an easy fix, but in remote you look for work-arounds, and lining the seal lip up elsewhere if possible, looks like No1 option.

I am looking at how I might be able to use the plate part of the three way pulling tool anchored in the centre with the central flange bolt and then use three bolts set into the three holes on the diff pinion flange and use nuts to wind the pulling plate out. (In similar fashion to how Fouby UK demonstrate their "special" tool for flange removal.)
That might get the flange out, and then i have to work out a good way to anchor the diff pinion flange when I go to fit it all back and tighten central bolt up.
Back to looking at the "universal" flange holding tool from Fouby UK.

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Originally Posted by AK83

with the centralising pin, just an M8 bolt screwed in against something anchored to the flange is enough. Yeah , they can get stuck too, but again, some penetrant/heat/bangy force can assist.

To pull the pin, or spigot or whatever each prefers to cal it, I used a suitable sized metal 'bush' removal cup.

Again off ebay ... LINK .... got it fairly cheaply(for the amount of metal involved) ..
The cups are very solid .. and someone could probably break one, but I haven't managed too yet, even using a 5lb sledgy onto the ones I've used.
Got my panhard rod bushes out against a bluestone boulder, using the smash and smash method .. I tried the bench vise, but at one point I thought it'd break .. so ended that, and used the smash 'em method on the boulder.

... oh! yeah .... I have a 2+ ton boulder in my yard that came out of the ground that I asked the backhoe operator not to pull out!

If you have large sockets, they could be used instead of needing the bush removal kit. Can't recall the size of the diameter of the bush part of the centralising pin .. maybe a 1 1/2" socket may be OK .. then use a washer and a M8 bolt of suitable length and sew it in. a bit of WD/lube and wind it up. It should pull out.

I assume that the 3 fingered pulley tool could also be used to remove the centralising pin if it's anchored to flange too. But I reckon a bit annoying as it'd take a few spacers to maintain a decent distance between flange and tool plate.

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I have a couple of methods in mind using the 3 fingered flanged puller.

Just need space between drive flange and puller fingers, so long enough bolts to achieve required spacing .. say 100mm long bolts(maybe 125mm .. but just as an example)

One way would be to use spacers between the drive flange and the puller flange plate.. eg. some appropriately sized tubing. (to note I have most of the stuff I'll refer too) .. ie. I have some 10mm tube, I'd cut to say 100mm lengths(then need 125+mm long bolts. Washers to hold bolts properly at the flanged and also for the nut ends. The tightened down bolts now shoudl be solid with about 100mm distance between flanges. another 125mm or whatever M8 bolt through the central threaded hole of the puller plate, appropriate washer for it to that as it tightens up, it's force on the head stays put and tightening it up, pulls on the centralising pin.

The alternate way to use the puller plate, instead of using the tube to space the flanges, you could lock them up using the same bolt hardware, but use more nuts along the path of the bolts to lock spacing between the two flanges. SO head of bolt on a flange(using washers too obviously) .. then a lock nut for the first flange to the bolt is now locked at this distance on the first flange .. then another nut up the bolt first, then washer too, insert into the other flange, and the second nut now is wound up down to give you some spacing. The third nut is then wound on to hold the contraption on properly. Once tightened I'd expect it'd be solid enough to allow some force allowance in the central hold to wind the M8 into the centralising pin.

A lot of mucking about if you don't have (say) a socket or bush cup to do it ... but still doable(I reckon).

Yes I used a 51MM socket and a long bolt. AFAIR I had to add some washers to the bolt to get the right length for thread engagement, but It came out pretty easily..
I fitted the seal in a different position to where it was. you can test fit by putting grease on the seal surface and note where it comes to on the flange and adjust accordingly.
You do not have to worry about bearing preload as the preload is set by shims not a crush washer.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Yes I used a 51MM socket and a long bolt. AFAIR I had to add some washers to the bolt to get the right length for thread engagement, but It came out pretty easily..
I fitted the seal in a different position to where it was. you can test fit by putting grease on the seal surface and note where it comes to on the flange and adjust accordingly.
You do not have to worry about bearing preload as the preload is set by shims not a crush washer.
Regards PhilipA

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I will have to see if our (only) parts shop actually has a 51mm socket in its range and then whether it would be deep enough.
Still waiting on FourbyUk to advise if they actually do have the advertised extraction tools.
Nothing moves quick up here. (Kununurra)

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Originally Posted by vbrab

I will have to see if our (only) parts shop actually has a 51mm socket in its range and then whether it would be deep enough.
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The depth shouldn't be an issue... Once it comes out say half way(about 20mm) or so it should free up a bit more, and come out easier.

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The depth shouldn't be an issue... Once it comes out say half way(about 20mm) or so it should free up a bit more, and come out easier.

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It is tapered so will release with a bang and then be easy.
Regards PhilipA