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Thread: Starting issue

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    You must get to the pump with a multimeter and make sure that it gets power when you turn ignition on and dont hear it to not be an electrical circuit issue or sticking relay, if it gets 12V across the WP and black wires but doesnt run you know for sure that it's faulty but if no power you'll replace it in vain
    Pump should arrive tomorrow so will take the carpet up and test before unpacking.

    My assumption now is the pump is only working intermittently. I expect I will see power to the pump, but the pump failing.

    We shall soon see!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by getLuke View Post
    ...

    My assumption now is the pump is only working intermittently. I expect I will see power to the pump, but the pump failing.

    We shall soon see!
    I would check as per Sierraferys' advice first. You'll be surprised on LR electrics and how intermittent elec faults occur... you know how rocket and astro scientists talk of multi dimensions and parallel universe theories ... it's primarily due to engineering principles at LR, and that if an easy way has been found to achieve something(mechanical, electrical, etc) LR used those newly discovered methods in a parallel universe and so to us they appear backward/idiotic/moronic/stupid/why!!/etc.

    Intermittency of earth connections are a likely cause .. remember that it not only needs a line from power, but it also needs a return path for that power too.

    If I were in your situation, I'd have a battery at hand, some jumper leads and remove plug, and hit it with direct power from your at hand battery. Do this a few times to check for pump intermittency.

    You could well be right about the pump being the actual issue .. and for sure one day it will. And you have the pump ordered now.
    So if you discover that the pump issue may just be a connection issue, you end up prepared for the day when the pump does eventually fail.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #23
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    Glow plug problems? On the Sunshine coast? I doubt it. I can't recall seeing the glowplug light on my car and I'm in Melbourne.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by getLuke View Post
    I wonder if it could be the glow plug(s) failing?
    A TD5 will quite happily start without glow plugs.
    As others have mentioned, the 3 common failing items: pump, pressure regulator, injector seals (do the injector harness while there).
    Regards
    Daz


  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I would check as per Sierraferys' advice first. You'll be surprised on LR electrics and how intermittent elec faults occur... you know how rocket and astro scientists talk of multi dimensions and parallel universe theories ... it's primarily due to engineering principles at LR, and that if an easy way has been found to achieve something(mechanical, electrical, etc) LR used those newly discovered methods in a parallel universe and so to us they appear backward/idiotic/moronic/stupid/why!!/etc.

    Intermittency of earth connections are a likely cause .. remember that it not only needs a line from power, but it also needs a return path for that power too.

    If I were in your situation, I'd have a battery at hand, some jumper leads and remove plug, and hit it with direct power from your at hand battery. Do this a few times to check for pump intermittency.

    You could well be right about the pump being the actual issue .. and for sure one day it will. And you have the pump ordered now.

    So if you discover that the pump issue may just be a connection issue, you end up prepared for the day when the pump does eventually fail.
    Haha gold! Just like the position of the oil cartridge

    You could be right re the earths. I am astounded on how many earths this thing has! I have recently had a weird intermittent issue with the aux circuit (radio, cigar lighter, wiper) where it would not work, then roughly 10 seconds - 10 minutes of driving, it'll all get power and I have those AUX items working.

    Could be related. However I have played and checked all the earths I could find and it seems to have restored itself.. for now.

    100% will be checking the multi at the pump soon before installing the pump. I will most likely take the pump out and clean all filters in any case whilst I am there.

    When you say:
    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I'd have a battery at hand, some jumper leads and remove plug, and hit it with direct power from your at hand battery. Do this a few times to check for pump intermittency.
    You mean, have a secondary battery (perhaps the wifes car) and have the leads from the negative to the battery to the earth on the pump and then the positive to the power on the pump? Would I need to fuse this at all?

    Also, what is 'WP' when sierraferry states "..if it gets 12V across the WP and black wires.."?

    Cheers mate!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Glow plug problems? On the Sunshine coast? I doubt it. I can't recall seeing the glowplug light on my car and I'm in Melbourne.
    Good to know. They are fairly cheap so I was considering changing to eliminate in any case.

    I do not believe there is a light on the instrument panel for the glow plugs.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    A TD5 will quite happily start without glow plugs.
    As others have mentioned, the 3 common failing items: pump, pressure regulator, injector seals (do the injector harness while there).
    Great to know, thanks legend.

    I'll check the wiring to the pump to see if is the signal to the pump, then i'll test the pump like suggested above. If no avail, I'll get my buddy to test the fuel pressure and go from there.

    Ive just rebuild the engine with new head and I am sure new seals and washers were replaced (OEM) (15,000km ago) but they still could fail. Hence why I don't really think its the injector seals/washers.

    Could be the regulator still!

    Thanks mate!

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by getLuke View Post
    Good to know. They are fairly cheap so I was considering changing to eliminate in any case.

    I do not believe there is a light on the instrument panel for the glow plugs.
    Yup, the sure is a light for the glow plugs…
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by getLuke View Post
    Also, what is 'WP' when sierraferry states "..if it gets 12V across the WP and black wires.."?

    Cheers mate!
    WP = white/purple trace, that's how the circuits are coded in the diagrams

    Wire colour codes.jpg

    as about glow plugs they are more important than it appears, it's good to have them working even if it's not cold in your area and won't affect the starting too much cos they keep the engine cleaner inside, they have a "post heat" operation too after the engine was started to improve the combustion so less carbon deposits in time.
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  10. #30
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    as about glow plugs they are more important than it appears, it's good to have them working even if it's not cold in your area and won't affect the starting too much cos they keep the engine cleaner inside, they have a "post heat" operation too after the engine was started to improve the combustion so less carbon deposits in time.
    4 out of 5 aint bad. to paraphrase the meatloaf song.

    I am somewhat sure that they heat on shutdown also, as there is a big current draw after switch off.

    But my light has never come on, except for the usual start up check. Still there is a big draw when ignition is turned on for a few seconds which seem more than just fuel pump as my battery voltage goes from 12.5-7 down to 11.8 or thereabouts for a few seconds. Hard to tell once engine starts as alternator is putting out 14.5.
    Regards PhilipA

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