Starting issue

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Ignition switch.

Check the voltage at the switching terminal on the relay as you cycle the ignition switch.

---

Will try that tomorrow morning when it should fail again.

I tried all last night (about 5 times on the hour) from 5pm - 10pm and each time the pump primed immediately. When I got up this morning it failed straight away.

I'll see if the local LR shop has a relay in stock and I'll switch that after testing the relay terminal.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bohica

This morning 10C, ignition on glow plug light is on. Start the car glow plug light goes off. I have, in the past, started the car successfully at -5C

---

I am originally from New Zealand so my old diesels would always need a glow plug warm up [thumbsupbig]

Seen my instrument cluster again light up for a second at start up again this morning but being in the Sunshine Coast (currently rainy coast but still 18oC), its not an issue lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by getLuke

I am originally from New Zealand

---

We'll try not to hold it against you. [wink11]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by V8Ian

We'll try not to hold it against you. [wink11]

---

Phew! [bigrolf]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by getLuke

So I left it overnight and tested the plug on first start up.

No voltage from first approx 4 ignition cycles, then we got 12v.

So now I am going to go back and get a new relay and try that as I do not think it is the pump.

Any other ideas?

---

Yes first of all rule out the relay(swap it with R3/headlamp wash for test) then if it's the same you'll have to troubleshoot where the bad contact is based on the diagram and involved connectors/earth if you know how to do that, now it's certain that your starting issue is electrical, IMO if it was the ignition switch it should have affected all the electrics not just the pump

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Yes first of all rule out the relay(swap it with R3/headlamp wash for test) then if it's the same you'll have to troubleshoot where the bad contact is based on the diagram and involved connectors/earth if you know how to do that, now it's certain that your starting issue is electrical, IMO if it was the ignition switch it should have affected all the electrics not just the pump

---

Yep, so have switched the relays and will wait until tomorrow morning for it to not work, to test! Unless it fires up straight away which would then indicate the relay.

Unfortunately the land rover shop gave me the wrong relays *facepalm* so will need to take them back tomorrow.

Im fairly new learning electrical stuff..

Do you know where the earth points would be located to check?

I did have a AUX issue where the cigar lighter, radio, windscreen wipers would not work then suddenly come on after 30seconds - 10 mins of driving.

If you want to find the problem yourself you have to know to read the diagrams then the connector views, the pump's earth point is on that rail between the battery and fusebox, the first connector after the fusebox for the pump is in the engine bay so next time check on that for voltage and if you have voltage there and at the pump is missing you know that theproblem is on that path, see Electrical library - connector views - C0376 and check across earth and the WP wire when the pump is not running

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sierrafery

If you want to find the problem yourself you have to know to read the diagrams then the connector views, the pump's earth point is on that rail between the battery and fusebox, the first connector after the fusebox for the pump is in the engine bay so next time check on that for voltage and if you have voltage there and at the pump is missing you know that theproblem is on that path, see Electrical library - connector views - C0376 and check across earth and the WP wire when the pump is not running

---

Awesome, thanks bud!

I've always avoided electrical stuff but now with a Land Rover, I may as well learn.

Checked the earths by the ECU and gave them all a good clean and made sure they were all good. I'll check the voltage on that earth tomorrow morning in unison with the washer relay swap.

I will also have a look at the electrical library and check for the earth locations if that is the problem!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Yes first of all rule out the relay(swap it with R3/headlamp wash for test) then if it's the same you'll have to troubleshoot where the bad contact is based on the diagram and involved connectors/earth if you know how to do that, now it's certain that your starting issue is electrical, IMO if it was the ignition switch it should have affected all the electrics not just the pump

---

If the switch is anything like those in RRC's they end up with all sorts of weird symptoms when the copper dimples inside get worn, even temp related IME.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by getLuke

....

I've always avoided electrical stuff but now with a Land Rover, I may as well learn.

Checked the earths by the ECU and gave them all a good clean and made sure they were all good. I'll check the voltage on that earth tomorrow morning in unison with the washer relay swap.

.....

---

I hate electrics! I hate LR electrics even more so!!

The way I understand troubleshooting: when you checked for power, did you connect multimeter (or test light) at both power AND earth at the plug? Or did you check the earth by grounding somewhere metallic?

So if you connected meter to both power and earth at the plug, then you're checking both power and earth(points) at the same time. Good test to do.
If you connect power at the plug and earth at the chassis, this way you only tested the power circuit, not the return earth line.

If you had a earth failure point somewhere doing both test types confirms or eliminates this. If you had a earth failure, and the positive rail was OK, then if you ran a wire from chassis to the earth pin on the plug, you can solve the issue.
ie. you had an earthing issue.

If you tested for power only(which most folks do) by earthing the multimeter to the chassis, then you have a power rail issue(ie. fuse/relay/etc) type problem .. this simplifies what to concentrate on, ie. your issues is 99.9% related to the positive side.
This doesn't mean that you don't have a earth issue tho.. It could be a compounding problem.

This is why in my reply I said get a battery to the rear, couple of wires(say 10 amp types or whatever) .. I don't think you need a fused wire, but if you have, then better. Just connect battery to pump terminals, not too long, just a few seconds is enough. Do this a few times to confirm that the pump accepts power and operates each time. Could have been a electrical issue within the pump .. not just a failed pump.
But it seems you have confirmed that power to the plug is the issue. Just work out if it's pos or earth.

Oh and don't be surprised if the underside of the main fuse box(engine bay one) could be corroded/dirty/loose/etc too .. so could simply be a connection issue at the source to the wire.
D2's also seem to be prone to interior fuse box issues too. so pull it down, inspect it, I reckon give the back side of it a spray too.
(the pass fuse box doesn't seem to have any role in the fuel pump .. that was just a general tip to help keep future electrical gremlins at bay)

if you don't know the history of the vehicle I'd do a bit of a WD-refresh. pull relays and fuses and spray a WD or lube type or contact cleaner spray into and down the receptacles.