Never, at this point the fusebox is very suspect... or bad contact in the involved connector in itQuote:
Originally Posted by getLuke
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Never, at this point the fusebox is very suspect... or bad contact in the involved connector in itQuote:
Originally Posted by getLuke
Didn't think so and I appreciate the confirmation!Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
Next step is removal of the fusebox then, will give it a clean and re-install and also look for a replacement.
Any tips for fusebox removal?
Disconnect the battery, undo the brown and red thick wires, remove the 3 retaining bolts, lift it and unplug connectors
Pulled the fusebox out and cleaned all around the base and top - although it was not too dirty.
Checked out the C-0376 - C-0390 connections and they looked fine however there was only the WP wire coming out of C-0390 and not the WB.
Interestingly enough RAVES states the C-0578 is in pin 4. But for mine its in pin 3? You can see in one of the images, I should have taken a better photo.
I've got a fusebox being sent to me so I feel along with the intermittent AUX issue I have (Aux circuit - Intermittent issue) and perhaps why the amber HDC light comes on, this will fix my issue... hopefully [bigsmile1]
Attachment 178970Attachment 178971Attachment 178972
The amber HDC light is probably a complementary issue cos it's about the HDC relay which is built into the interior fusebox so you might have to replace that fusebox too
This is normal, but normal as long as you don't have SLS fitted. The code '13' in the RHS column(Cct) equates to a particular model/range, which in this instance is the models fitted with SLS.Quote:
Originally Posted by getLuke
So if you do any more tracing of electricals and see a code in the Cct column, look for your model, otherwise it will list 'ALL'. The code table is at the very top of the connector listing pages.
I think your pinout is OK(from what I can understand. The connector view is from the front, not the rear, so pin3 in your photo is the upper LH corner pin(rear view) which is the upper RH corner in the RAVE image(front view).
This should be the PS(Purple - Grey(tracer) wire) which looks about right. The colours in your photo haven't rendered clearly but this looks about right to me. Pin1 sort'a kind'a looks Purple/Pink ... ish! Directly underneath that pin is Pin4 which shows a white-ish coloured wire ... hopefully with the purple tracer.
Next to that pin(4) should be Pin5 which should have the OS(Orange grey tracer) wire, then Pin6 which looks blank unless you have a model code 24(Hiline Audio) .. which possibly yours isn't. If you have/had Hiline audio, there should be a Purple green wire there.
Reminder that the wire colour codes always refer to the main colour first, then the secondary colour is the tracer colour if applicable .. so WP is a white wire with a purple tracer, whereas a PS is a Purple wire with a Grey trace colour.
So now that you've located the 0390 connector that DOESN'T have the WB wire, next time you have a fuel pump issue and you reckon no power to the pump, check the power at this connector point. If there is no power on the fuel pump side, check the relay side(could be a dodgy connection inside the connector!). If you have handled the connector, which you almost certainly will have too, and the pump comes alive, then for sure this connector is intermittent.
If you find no power at all at the connector, then the issues is either at the relay itself, or at C-0578 side some where too.
Hope it all makes sense.
Thanks heaps mate! I am learning more about electronics now as I just shrugged them off when I was younger.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Spot on - No SLS on my D2a, so that now makes sense (and the location of the wire on the connector.
I have a new fusebox coming (well second hand from a mate down south who I can trust), and I think there must be an issue in the actual engine bay fusebox itself. I did try to open the fusebox when it was out but it seemed to be stuck on one corner and did not want to break it.
If this fails, as I am having some other weird things happen, I'll look to replace the internal fusebox also.
If all that fails, I'll be heading to the local LR shop or an auto electrician that knows Land Rovers haha!
Really appreciate the help!
I do have a question, probs silly but I am a beginner! How do I use the multi in the fusebox?
What points do I use, and what do I use as a ground?
Thanks :)
Think of the fuse box as a solid wire connection point.Quote:
Originally Posted by getLuke
Check for continuity(in general).
That is, for this specific issue: find the connector that the WP wire seats into on the underside of the fuse box, that is the one that mates to Pin4 on connector 0578, and also locate the male plug side of where the relay plugs into now, from the top side.
The power down the WP line to the fuel pump comes from pin 87 on the relay. The relay will have markings on it to show which pin that is and you can line it up yourself to the embedded male plug on the fuse box topside.
All you want to be sure of is that you have good continuity from the top of the fuse box(where the power comes from) to the bottom side(where the power goes too).
Doing this just makes sure that your connections are good, not the voltage or power levels or resistance through the connection!
You asked about what grounding do you use. For ground, any ground is ground.. and ground is sometimes referred to as common. This is because no matter what ground point you use, it's all the same. What you can do tho, is to measure the resistance from one ground point to another(usually the main ground at the battery, or the battery ground pole itself).
One other thing about your specific issue. I wouldn't necessarily automatically assume that the fusebox may be the cause here, unless you have confirmed that all the wires from C-0578 on the WP line all the way to the pump are all good too.
It may well turn out to be the fusebox, but don't go into the troubleshooting process with any sort of bias.
So question: is the issue the same as before? IIRC sometimes you would need to hit the ignition switch maybe 3 or 4 times to get the fuel pump to make a sound .. kind of issue? or is it different now. Happens more often, or less often, or something?
Also: I'd say pulling fuse box apart may not yield any significant discovery.
Fuse box is basically a sturdy metal 'circuit board' type device. I don't know the metal used in this circuit board, but it's very sturdy.. quite rust proof.
Mine has been sitting in the weather for a few years, where many less sturdy metals have rusted away, but the fuse box innards are perfectly fine.
I doubt very much you have an issue between the relay socket and the pin going to the WP wire plug.
Attachment 178998
It could be a small disconnection, but the box is a bit hard to pull apart. Working from the front,where the main power feed and maxi fuses are, you need to spread the outer side body to unclip the tabs, then using a ***** tool, delve into the two front tabs from underneath, poking and prodding each one in turn and forcing the two parts apart. Doing this will jam up at the rear end and make it tighter to separate. The tricky part is that not only do you have about 10 tabs to separate, but also the metal bus bars run along the sides too, and catch on the side of the main body, so you have to start from the front, work to the back and go back to the front again to open out the main outer body again to release the metal bus bar too. It's very easy to twist the entire metal bus bar assembly(but looks easy to straighten it back out again to get it all back in and working.
It's not magnetic which suggests it's a coated copper.
I re read your recent posts, and it seems like the relay is not clicking?(maybe).
If you had a touch on it when it was supposed to click, you would definitely feel it click on and off.
Swapping relays around makes a difference.
You said that it always happens when after standing(eg. overnight). So next time before you try starting, pop the fuse box cover and just wiggle R9 first before you try to start(or prime the pump). Don't remove it, or swap it, just wriggle it a bit by hand and hopefully it will start or prime up immediately.
The main relay controls the operation of the fuel pump relay too. So if the signal for the main relay is a bit dodgy it won't power the coil for the fuel pump relay to operate. Same power line also sends power to the engine ECU too.
I don't know exactly what this means in terms of tracing the issue, but maybe this is in the fusebox itself.
Be mindful too tho, you said you cleaned up the underside of the fuse box where a previous owner and yourself have added stuff. We don't know exactly what stuff you have added down under there, we can only assume that this has been done 'professionally' in that it hasn't disturbed the way the fuse box and relay system works.
ie. if you or previous owner have added an accessory that starts up via the main relay, and comes off fuse 1(30 amp) it could be that it's drawing a ton of power, and there isn't enough all the time for the main relay to send to the fuel pump relay, which itself won't turn on ... or something.
The term professionally doesn't strictly mean that it's been done by a elec .. they've also been found to not produce the professional jobs as their title implies they should.
I'm using the tern as an indicator to the idea that any added accessory or mod to the electrics hasn't affected the normal operation of the electrics.
Cheers legend! I'll have to check next time I can get the fusebox out again (garage is full atm).Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Well interestingly enough, since I took the fuse box out (took ECU also and no oil in the plug), I numbered all relays, removed them all, then put them back in as taken out.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Now there is power to the pump every time (only since Sunday and Monday), so far, has been working fine. Now its back to the issue here: Aux circuit - Intermittent issue
This is where the AUX circuit (wipers, cigar lighter, radio) does not come on straight away and will do after around 5 minutes of driving.
Today I left the wipers on the intermittent setting and I hear a repeated click, click, click from the interior fusebox relay so I turned them off and a minute later the circuit came back to life.
I am not sure, but I am confident these issues are related, hence my thoughts of the fusebox(es).
