Starting issue

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Originally Posted by getLuke

By the power of the gods, it finally worked! That is, the starting issue. The fuel pump was not priming.

• I turned it on and could hear fuel pump and AUX circuit was fine.
• Turned it off, waited, plugged in Nanocom and turned car on. No fuel pump sound and the HDC amber light was illuminated. AUX circuit was fine.
• Popped the bonnet, car still at IGN II, wiggled R9 and the fuel pump started. I could hear it. Also the HDC amber light extinguished. AUX circuit, fine.
• Turned it off, removed R9, turned it back on and no fuel pump sound, the HDC amber light was illuminated. AUX circuit was fine.
• Off, R9 in and after a couple more goes at it, I managed to recreate the above process.

So clearly an issue with relay(s) or fusebox connections..?

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I'd say so.

yep, me too.

could be fuse box itself as you might think, could be dodgy plug/wire underneath too, or still a bit of rust/scale/muck in the pin sockets ..

When you wiggled it, did you feel it click. It would have been clearly obvious if it did. Theres a difference if it did click or not click.

if it didn't click and the pump suddenly sprouted to life, then the main power(ie. pins 30/87 .. or 3 and 5) are the issue to be looking into.
If the relay clicked, and pump came on, then the power for the relays coil is where to look into.

remember the relay is just a fancy schmancy switch. Your switch(in this case, the key powering the main relay, so no actual switch to speak of) .. powers the coil in the relay, which connects the main feed to the pump.

think of it this way: you have a simple switch to operate a device(say lights, or sunroof, or whatever). the switch you use to turn it on/off will be made cheaply/small, dinky as possible(to save money) and can't carry a large current load.
So there is a relay between your switch and your device. The switch activates the relay switch(ie. the coil) and the device itself gets power from the battery but via the relay. the coil in the relay just connected the main power from battery to relay to device.

reason for all this is that if you push say 30 amps that a device may need via a switch that can only carry 1 amp, you burn the 1 amp switch out quickly. The coil in the relay only needs say 0.5 amps to switch(from on to off or other way around) and it then switches the actual switch for the main power to the device.
This is what a relay is, and why they're used.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AK83

When you wiggled it, did you feel it click.

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Got it to fail this afternoon and when I wiggled it, I did not feel any click.

I changed the fuseboxes over tonight so will test it tomorrow.

Well, so far so good. Fusebox replaced and there is power to the pump and the AUX circuit has not faulted, yet. Too early to say..

I had another fault occur which I thought was unrelated and should have mentioned, was the 3 amigos. The 3 amigos that read a fault: 13-04 pump failure 2 (pump no running when actuated).

I have never had the 3 amigos happen in the years I have owned it, but thought I'd tackle Option B once I fixed the starting issue.

It has now not come up. At least not today (it would at least once a day). So this makes sense if the fusebox was faulty and also effected the ABS relay along with the Fuel Pump and AUX relays.

If I don't post back here, it'll be case closed - fusebox.

Cheers for all the help, I'd shout you a beer at the local [thumbsupbig]

:BigThumb: That fusebox was very suspect from the beginning, i have a strong feeling that from now the problems described in this tread are history.

If you were interested, here is the fusebox. Clear corrosion!

Attachment 179142Attachment 179143Attachment 179144