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Thread: Crappy Coolant

  1. #1
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    Crappy Coolant

    I have over the last three years brought repco Red OAT coolant to put in my Disco 2 TD5 and have nothing but trouble with something eating anyway the engine oil cooler from the water side. Tested for Parasitical currant draw and nothing detected either off or engine running. Have used both OEM or cheap Chinese version of the cooler and both are lasting less than 12 months with the same outcome. Repco blames not using the correct water ( have used both carbon filter tank water and town water) and that another company make the coolant for them. Rang the company and on there web site they say you can use either de-mineralised water or town water. In 40 years as a mechanic I have never seen this happen. Has anyone got any ideas. Have photos of both the 1st one and the 3rd one new and buggered. Sorry the second one was the same as the last. Changing them is not the problem but the cost and the pain in the butt cleaning is a problem.

    These 4 are the last episode with this as a new one below 10 months
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    If I am ever on life support
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  2. #2
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    This to me looks like cross contamination where different coolants have reached adversely to each other if I were you I would replace all hoses flush the system with a good radiator cleaner and refill with a quality coolant not Chinese or Repco just my thoughts.
    Phil

  3. #3
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    I'm running demineralised water in mine since I did the head late last year.

    Much easier to see what's floating around in there.

    Eventually I will put in the Tectalloy green concentrate, which is supposedly effective with tap water at reduced change intervals, but I always do my cars with demineralised water and have plenty in the garage and under the sink for the steam iron too. The red stuff in every car I have had with it in has always leaked and crusted, always end up flushing them out and using the Tectalloy after a period of clear water to make sure it was flushed properly.

    If you can find a radiator place with a dedicated coolant flushing machine and an operator who will hook it up properly (remove thermostat and individual hook ups to block, heater and emission gear) you will be amazed at the crap that comes out.

    My 5 cents worth (your valuation of my currency may be different)

  4. #4
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    That is amazing!
    I have never seen reaction like that.
    I use Nulon Longlife red in my 2002 TD5 and as you say it leaks and crusts then stops leaking.
    I also add some Redline Water Wetter and also use demineralised water.
    I have had 2 occasions to look inside the cooling system and both times there was absolutely no corrosion. Once was changing the radiator for no other reason than it was 15years old and it was spotless inside, and once the water pump as again it was very old and I was losing about 20-30Mil of water every year and it was also spotless..

    Previously My 1991 RRC was similarly super clean inside. I had the radiator rodded and resealed (after 9 years)before a big trip to The Kimberley and the radiator place said it was clean inside.

    I suspect the water has a lot to do with it. I once met a bloke in WA who had an 80 series and his new genuine Toyota core was leaking after one year. The dealer had apparently used Karratha town water.
    I cannot imagine that there would be much difference between coolant brands so it is pretty mystifying.
    Regards PhilipA
    PPS a friend had a oil cooler failure which filled the cooling system with oil and he ran washing up detergent through to clean up the cooling system. Did you do similar ? If so it could be interaction between the detergent and coolant.

  5. #5
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    Lack of coolant flow?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    That is amazing!
    I have never seen reaction like that.
    I use Nulon Longlife red in my 2002 TD5 and as you say it leaks and crusts then stops leaking.
    I also add some Redline Water Wetter and also use demineralised water.
    I have had 2 occasions to look inside the cooling system and both times there was absolutely no corrosion. Once was changing the radiator for no other reason than it was 15years old and it was spotless inside, and once the water pump as again it was very old and I was losing about 20-30Mil of water every year and it was also spotless..

    Previously My 1991 RRC was similarly super clean inside. I had the radiator rodded and resealed (after 9 years)before a big trip to The Kimberley and the radiator place said it was clean inside.

    I suspect the water has a lot to do with it. I once met a bloke in WA who had an 80 series and his new genuine Toyota core was leaking after one year. The dealer had apparently used Karratha town water.
    I cannot imagine that there would be much difference between coolant brands so it is pretty mystifying.
    Regards PhilipA
    PPS a friend had a oil cooler failure which filled the cooling system with oil and he ran washing up detergent through to clean up the cooling system. Did you do similar ? If so it could be interaction between the detergent and coolant.

    I have flushed the system every time I have had to change the cooler and yes I use a variety of products to flush including liquid dishwasher detergent. I pull every hose off and clean and flush as well as the radiator. Thats the part the gets to me as replacing the unit is not that much of a deal but cleaning . I will test the sediment this week to see if its acid or alkaline. Thanks
    If I am ever on life support
    unplug me.....
    Then plug me back in see if that works !!!!!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by laney View Post
    This to me looks like cross contamination where different coolants have reached adversely to each other if I were you I would replace all hoses flush the system with a good radiator cleaner and refill with a quality coolant not Chinese or Repco just my thoughts.
    Phil
    Yes I think I will change to a known quality brand even though Repco suggests that theirs is made by a known brand. Just seem strange that the only constant is the coolant. Even had 3 liters left and used it on my dads laser and it blocked the radiator which had to be replaced.
    If I am ever on life support
    unplug me.....
    Then plug me back in see if that works !!!!!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by laney View Post
    This to me looks like cross contamination where different coolants have reached adversely to each other if I were you I would replace all hoses flush the system with a good radiator cleaner and refill with a quality coolant not Chinese or Repco just my thoughts.
    Phil
    Have used the same coolant every time and quality flushed the whole system even to the point of pulling every hose and cleaning including the radiator.
    If I am ever on life support
    unplug me.....
    Then plug me back in see if that works !!!!!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Discosux View Post
    Lack of coolant flow?
    I believe the flow is OK have replaced the water pump, radiator, hoses and it does not get hot even pulling a caravan.
    If I am ever on life support
    unplug me.....
    Then plug me back in see if that works !!!!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadrunner230 View Post
    Yes I think I will change to a known quality brand even though Repco suggests that theirs is made by a known brand. Just seem strange that the only constant is the coolant. Even had 3 liters left and used it on my dads laser and it blocked the radiator which had to be replaced.
    That is the answer there.^^^
    On my D2's,i used the LR coolant,which at the time was not much more expensive than aftermarket coolant,and had no issues.
    But that was quite a few years back now.

    Same as our work Tojo's,we use the manufacturers coolant,never had an issue.Also same sort of price as coolant from auto accessary places.
    As are their air and oil filters.
    Why would we use anything else?
    Paul

    D2,D2,D2a,D4,'09 Defender 110(sons), all moved on.

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56
    Comes out of hibernation every few months for a run

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