Won't go over 60km/h

**Noisy** · 9th July 2022, 12:50 PM

Hi all, my car seems to have developed a new problem. It wont go over 60km not matter how hard to you put the throttle down, it just revs to about 3000rpm and stays there. I plugged the nanocom into it the other day and the only fault of note was 4,1 air temp high. I cleared the fault but the problem is still there. It has a bit of shudder when its cold and driving out the street and building up to speed. So my question is where do i begin looking, a quick google search has said it could be any number of the following.

Gear box, car has 250,000kms and unsure if it the box as ever been repaired/replaced by previous owners, it has a pretty complete service history but no mention of it anywhere.
Fuel Pump same as above, but its not noisy ect
Drive shaft for the shudder, i had the front double joint and uni replaced not long ago so should be fine
Maf could explain the error, but would have thought the car would gone faster than 60km/h

I did put the car in park and revved it up and its seem pretty smooth ie no shudder, so the problem only while driving, feels like a limp mode but not errors on the dash.

**V8Ian** · 9th July 2022, 01:25 PM

Will it rev to 3,000 whilst in drive? I'm predicting fuel pump failure, if no.
Fuel pump failure does not always present as noisy.

**sierrafery** · 9th July 2022, 01:27 PM

Hi, record an inputs fuelling log on SD card while driving and post it here. If you dont know how at least watch the inlet air temp live input, if it's above 100 then you need a new MAP sensor cos the IAT side of it has failed, quite common. The IAT should be very close to the outside temp on cold start then up to max 30*C higher depending on some conditions. If that's OK the question is: do you still have EGR?, if not it can be low fuel pressure, here's an easy trick Disco 2 - Check Td5 fuel pump HP | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

also what about the ECU red plug, is it clear of oil?

**AK83** · 9th July 2022, 01:42 PM

First things I'd do is remove the intake hoses, from turbo to intercooler and the intercooler to inlet manifold and look for any splits in them.

If they are OK, then another thing(not mentioned in the list you've already noted) can be the injector seals/washers.
Telltale for any issue there is check the oil(dipstick) and see if it's risen, or seems diluted by fuel.

As well as the already noted fuel pump, could also be a fuel pressure regulator issue .. leaking or dead regulator solenoid.

**sierrafery** · 9th July 2022, 02:59 PM

Originally Posted by AK83

... leaking or dead regulator solenoid.

Which "regulator solenoid" do you mean? i'm curious

**AK83** · 9th July 2022, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Which "regulator solenoid" do you mean? i'm curious

The actual regulating device, in the regulator body.

The two issues I've come across with FPR, is leaking at the gasket, and the regulator itself(ie. not the entire body assembly).

**sierrafery** · 9th July 2022, 07:07 PM

Originally Posted by AK83

The actual regulating device, in the regulator body.

Aaaaha, ... i was confused as you named it "solenoid" cos a solenoid implies electrical power

**eckolsim** · 9th July 2022, 09:21 PM

Don't forget to check the vacuum line to the turbo boost regulator.

HX 52: TD5 D2 engine - Wastegate Modulator (1)

If this is cracked/perished you won't go anywhere fast.

**DiscoDB** · 9th July 2022, 09:54 PM

I once had the same issue but can not remember which fault it was. I am thinking in my case it was the waste-gate control valve (simple to change out).

If you google “Td5 won’t rev to 3000rpm” you will find hundreds of links across many forums with different solutions.

One tip for Td5 owners - when it is running perfectly, that is the best time to simulate faults by disconnecting sensors and things like the waste-gate control valve one by one and going for a test drive. And then try disconnecting multiple sensors.

The Td5 ECU is brilliant at adapting to single failures but you will get different performance depending on what has failed, and with multiple failures it will still run but with limited power.

**onebob** · 9th July 2022, 10:51 PM

Originally Posted by eckolsim

Don't forget to check the vacuum line to the turbo boost regulator.

HX 52: TD5 D2 engine - Wastegate Modulator (1)

If this is cracked/perished you won't go anywhere fast.

Yes! certainly check the hoses associated with the modulator BUT note that the Wastegate Modulator is part of a positive pressure circuit and is NOT actuated by VACUUM- but is actuated by BOOST pressure. Pressure leaks caused by ruptured hoses will result in overboost and the ECU will cut fuel delivery.

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