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Thread: Aftermarket vs genuine fuel pressure regulator

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    Huon Valley Tasmania
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    Thinking along the lines of replacing the FPR and possibly doing the gaskets on the unit that comes out in order to have a spare….


    I’ll try and talk to the mechanic through the week, he knows his stuff. The transfer case isn’t stopping me getting around yet so I will just keep spraying oil out for a little while longer.

    Thanks for the tips fellas I’ll post with what ends up happening.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2022
    Location
    Huon Valley Tasmania
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    Just to wrap up the story,
    I kept my hands clean and got someone way more skilled to do both jobs.

    [mention]justinc [/mention] built me up a nice reconditioned Transfer Case with an Ashcroft ATB and did the fuel pressure regulator too.

    Now i realise how much the Transfer Case sounded like a box of nails in a tumble dryer. I just get to enjoy dieselly TD5 sounds instead of random noise.

    Got some suspension and steering work coming up and Disco Donna will be the dreamboat she should be.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,770
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    Just get a rebuild kit. Find a half decent one with a genuine Bosch regulator. Pull the old unit off, rebuild it and refit.

    They're all crappy quality - just different degrees of. To date I've found the genuine Land Rover and OEM full replacement units to last well, and the good rebuild kits to last pretty well. Cheap stuff doesn't.
    Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
    Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
    Dads - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 2.7L TDV6
    Sister-in-laws - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8

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