SLS - Down to bump stops - no fault

Island 4wd in England used to be the cheapest for new compressors not sure now as the post has increased.The rings used to wear out so you just replace the ring.only problem with aftermarket compressor is the release? valve is a part of the original compressor so you have to modify it then place another compressor.it can be done.

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Originally Posted by lewy

The rings used to wear out so you just replace the ring.only problem with aftermarket compressor is the release? valve is a part of the original compressor so you have to modify it then place another compressor.it can be done.

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There is the following option too where only a T piece is needed:

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

Remove the voss connector and fit a PC4-M8 push fit type instead, you should find in a pneumatics store in your area, this kind: Amazon.com: L-A PC4-M8 Straight Pneumatic Push to Quick Connect Fittings M8 Male x 4mm Tube OD One Touch Hose Connector for PTFE Tube 3D Printer Connector（10 Pcs） : Video Games ... i digged out the M8 thread from my memory but i'm not 100% sure so you'll have to undo the voss connector from the bag and make sure beffore you buy if that's what you want....or swap the connectors from your old bags if those are push fit into the new ones

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Good point re the old push connectors, they are both conti bags so should have the same 'size' connectors.

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Originally Posted by AK83

Further to sierra's reply .. if you want to be sure you get the right fitting, check out Able Air on Gaffney St. I'm sure they'll have something you need, plus a ton of stuff you didn't think you needed, but ended up buying anyhow(which I'd be guilty of falling for)

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Thanks Arthur, just up the road.

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Originally Posted by lewy

Island 4wd in England used to be the cheapest for new compressors not sure now as the post has increased.The rings used to wear out so you just replace the ring.only problem with aftermarket compressor is the release? valve is a part of the original compressor so you have to modify it then place another compressor.it can be done.

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Suppose the question is really, shouldn't I have heard the compressor spinning the motor at least, or does the piston seize with the ring overheating. Changed it with the Bagpipeandy kit when doing the full upgrade just as a matter of course as a maintenance item??
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Originally Posted by sierrafery

There is the following option too where only a T piece is needed:

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Its coming out tomorrow so will see if an ARB twin will fit in (or a small air tank), this seems too simple LOL, of course if I can rebuild it, will. That said a compressor with a 100% duty cycle is starting to make sense as well to mitigate against future problems.

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

There is the following option too where only a T piece is needed:

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there is a reason why i was thinking that this won't work.i think it is because that the valve will leak back through the compressor and cause the aftermarket compressor to run continuously although if the computer tell it to stop it will.I have an old one in the shed i will look tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by lewy

there is a reason why i was thinking that this won't work.i think it is because that the valve will leak back through the compressor and cause the aftermarket compressor to run continuously although if the computer tell it to stop it will.I have an old one in the shed i will look tomorrow.

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The exhaust valve is N/C it opens only when the ECU tells it to open no matters where the air goes out and the retrofitted compressor is managed like the original one being on that circuit while there is a non return valve between the exhaust valve and the original compressor... i made this setup myself for a friend with money issues using a cheap tyre inflator compressor fitted under the seat and it works OK though if the original assy's non return valve is shot then it can be an issue. It's a bit noisy when it kicks in that's all... at least he knows when it's working [bigsmile]

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

The exhaust valve is N/C it opens only when the ECU tells it to open no matters where the air goes out and the retrofitted compressor is managed like the original one being on that circuit while there is a non return valve between the exhaust valve and the original compressor... i made this setup myself for a friend with money issues using a cheap tyre inflator compressor fitted under the seat and it works OK though if the original assy's non return valve is shot then it can be an issue. It's a bit noisy when it kicks in that's all... at least he knows when it's working [bigsmile]

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why does the air from the compressor[green line] go to the exhaust valve.it has been quite a few years sinse i done mine,but i modified the internals.

Whilst looking up the repair of the compressor and as to what would make it non repairable, came across the Arnott site and their air bags


Arnott's new Land Rover rear air spring for the Discovery fits the left OR right side. These Land Rover springs are made with a Continental ContiTech air spring sleeve and come with a new air line fitting designed to mate up to the OE air lines with no modifications.

Seems the fitting which looks identical to the OE bag (except for a different colour ring around the top and Arnotts on the bag itself but the bag as they state is a ContiTech bladder) the bulletin is interesting as it says it is a push fitting!

Attachment 180616

All other push fittings I have seen have a raised and compressible insert into the fitting.

Attachment 180617


As an aside, have now gotten the parts for the back up lines, will be fitting them to both the D2 and D2a, thinking will cut the lines behind the compressor cover and run the lines with the compressor filter into the back quarter panel and then into the cabin behind the vent cover for easy access.

Attachment 180654

Put the wrong document re the air fitting!

Went to Able air in Coburg but they do not do lines / connectors below 6mm.

ContiTech air fitting on new bags, appear exactly the same as the Arnott

Attachment 180655

Thought came to me just now, when using the Schrader Valve for inflation, should we not inflate BOTH bags and then turn the SLS system off via Nanocom (SLS to Coils in setup). Else wise the bag will deflate each time we stop or the system detects over height etc.??

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Originally Posted by RRT

Thought came to me just now, when using the Schrader Valve for inflation, should we not inflate BOTH bags and then turn the SLS system off via Nanocom (SLS to Coils in setup). Else wise the bag will deflate each time we stop or the system detects over height etc.??

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That's valid if you have nanocom or similar and use te schrader valve with the T piece spliced into the SLS pipe but the simple way which doesnt involve a nanocom is to remove the SLS pipe from the bag and insert a piece of pipe with schrader valve attached which will stay there untill things are fixed ... for that to be easy it's important to have push fit connector on the bag.