FPR repair!

The O ring that holds the filter in on the head. It fits snugly?
If you do not unbolt the pipes, then no need to replace the O rings? Or do it any way because you can?

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Originally Posted by AK83

For a bit of 'future proofing' I changed it with quick release clip and hose.

As you said, whoever designed that small piece is a moron. LR used so many quick connect fittings all over the fuel system, and they could easily have had a similar half fuel pipe half hose type assembly for that with quick connects as well.
Stupid half @$$ed halfwits doing half baked jobs!

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That's where these kits are handy , very rarely needed and I used to push them on to the nylon hoses with the silicon gun trick but once I got this very happy, even has push fit joiners so cut ripped line square and push in, no metal barbed fittings or squeeze gun needed.

Attachment 180849

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Originally Posted by Bohica

The O ring that holds the filter in on the head. It fits snugly?
If you do not unbolt the pipes, then no need to replace the O rings? Or do it any way because you can?

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change it.
Also, deep inside this port that the small o-ring seals, is the gauge filter. Super expensive part, if you like, try to get it out without damaging it to see if it clean. If you use a pick type tool to prise it out be very careful.
I remember ours was a bit brown, and just sprayed with carb cleaner(or maybe brake cleaner) spray .. came clean.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

The rubber band trick is good. Also using headless bolts. I prefer the rubber band trick

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For me I prefer the guide bolts, they facilitate immediate alignment and “in position support” of the FPR block and gasket to the cylinder head ….leaving you free to concentrate solely on securing the assembly to the engine.

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Originally Posted by onebob

For me I prefer the guide bolts, they facilitate immediate alignment and “in position support” of the FPR block and gasket to the cylinder head ….leaving you free to concentrate solely on securing the assembly to the engine.

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NB: i slide a short piece of fuel hose onto one guide bolt to hold the FPR in position otherwise because of the angle of the the of the cylinder head it will slide off the guide bolts. This frees up both your hands for the next stage…

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Originally Posted by johnp38

That's where these kits are handy , very rarely needed and I used to push them on to the nylon hoses with the silicon gun trick but once I got this very happy, even has push fit joiners so cut ripped line square and push in, no metal barbed fittings or squeeze gun needed.

Attachment 180849

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I had a look at that repair kit. Only $700. I might buy two.

For $700 I could probably buy the whole fuel system lines and carry as spares.

The Bosch FPR for the Barra engines is a high flow alternative and well priced, such as - Bosch BA BF FG Barra XR6 Turbo FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator 4 Bar 0 280 160 575 – T.I. Performance

Have had this in for 5K k's now and no issue.

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Originally Posted by d2dave

I had a look at that repair kit. Only $700. I might buy two.

For $700 I could probably buy the whole fuel system lines and carry as spares.

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If you google you can see how to put the fittings on with a caulking gun and the fittings are readily available at speed shops and on ebay.

However some of us don't pay anywhere near that price ( $285 aud when I bought mine ) and have a use for it in our tool arsenal.

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Originally Posted by RRT

The Bosch FPR for the Barra engines is a high flow alternative and well priced, such as - Bosch BA BF FG Barra XR6 Turbo FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator 4 Bar 0 280 160 575 – T.I. Performance

Have had this in for 5K k's now and no issue.

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Plenty at the wreckers too. Mine was $13.