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Thread: FPR repair!

  1. #11
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    The O ring that holds the filter in on the head. It fits snugly?
    If you do not unbolt the pipes, then no need to replace the O rings? Or do it any way because you can?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    For a bit of 'future proofing' I changed it with quick release clip and hose.

    As you said, whoever designed that small piece is a moron. LR used so many quick connect fittings all over the fuel system, and they could easily have had a similar half fuel pipe half hose type assembly for that with quick connects as well.
    Stupid half @$$ed halfwits doing half baked jobs!
    That's where these kits are handy , very rarely needed and I used to push them on to the nylon hoses with the silicon gun trick but once I got this very happy, even has push fit joiners so cut ripped line square and push in, no metal barbed fittings or squeeze gun needed.

    IMG_20220914_105327.jpg

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    The O ring that holds the filter in on the head. It fits snugly?
    If you do not unbolt the pipes, then no need to replace the O rings? Or do it any way because you can?
    change it.
    Also, deep inside this port that the small o-ring seals, is the gauge filter. Super expensive part, if you like, try to get it out without damaging it to see if it clean. If you use a pick type tool to prise it out be very careful.
    I remember ours was a bit brown, and just sprayed with carb cleaner(or maybe brake cleaner) spray .. came clean.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  4. #14
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    FPR repair!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    The rubber band trick is good. Also using headless bolts. I prefer the rubber band trick
    For me I prefer the guide bolts, they facilitate immediate alignment and “in position support” of the FPR block and gasket to the cylinder head ….leaving you free to concentrate solely on securing the assembly to the engine.
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  5. #15
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    FPR repair!

    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    For me I prefer the guide bolts, they facilitate immediate alignment and “in position support” of the FPR block and gasket to the cylinder head ….leaving you free to concentrate solely on securing the assembly to the engine.
    NB: i slide a short piece of fuel hose onto one guide bolt to hold the FPR in position otherwise because of the angle of the the of the cylinder head it will slide off the guide bolts. This frees up both your hands for the next stage…
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    That's where these kits are handy , very rarely needed and I used to push them on to the nylon hoses with the silicon gun trick but once I got this very happy, even has push fit joiners so cut ripped line square and push in, no metal barbed fittings or squeeze gun needed.

    IMG_20220914_105327.jpg
    I had a look at that repair kit. Only $700. I might buy two.

    For $700 I could probably buy the whole fuel system lines and carry as spares.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  7. #17
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    Sep 2018
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    Alt FPR TD5

    The Bosch FPR for the Barra engines is a high flow alternative and well priced, such as - Bosch BA BF FG Barra XR6 Turbo FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator 4 Bar 0 280 160 575 – T.I. Performance

    Have had this in for 5K k's now and no issue.
    2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
    2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
    1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
    1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    I had a look at that repair kit. Only $700. I might buy two.

    For $700 I could probably buy the whole fuel system lines and carry as spares.
    If you google you can see how to put the fittings on with a caulking gun and the fittings are readily available at speed shops and on ebay.

    However some of us don't pay anywhere near that price ( $285 aud when I bought mine ) and have a use for it in our tool arsenal.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRT View Post
    The Bosch FPR for the Barra engines is a high flow alternative and well priced, such as - Bosch BA BF FG Barra XR6 Turbo FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator 4 Bar 0 280 160 575 – T.I. Performance

    Have had this in for 5K k's now and no issue.
    Plenty at the wreckers too. Mine was $13.

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