Thread: FPR repair!

I'll start this on Saturday. I have 2 weeks leave so I should get this done before I am back at work.

I have an inlet gasket to I might just remove the inlet gasket to clean it!! Oh and get better access.
I have looked at the guides on here.
I have the tools.
Saturday is the day.

Originally Posted by Bulletman

..... I actually found the job not that bad except for the hose that runs to the front of the head on the D2a model..
My god the person who designed that certainly needs the rough end of a pineapple.
We ended up just leaving it and fitting that hose to the new unit but spent at least 45 mins unsuccessfully trying to get it off.

....

For a bit of 'future proofing' I changed it with quick release clip and hose.

Firstly cut the pipe at the front end to get a socket onto the retaining nut. Easy!
Noting that when I did the brothers TD5, we replaced the entire FPR, not just the regulator solenoid and seal... so with the entire assembly you get all nice shiny new parts.
The way the pipe replacement works is that using the old short quick connect pipe off the old regulator assembly, this part gets used in place of the std pipe fitting, all you need to do is have hose long enough to go from front to the old return line connection at the FPR .. easy to fix that.
Remove the brace/support bar for the alternator for more room to move, fit the old quick release pipe into the return port in the head, and use a 7.89/7.95 quick connect fuel fitting(easily found online via the normal sites .. eg. 7.89/7.95 ID6 fuel fitting )

I found that the best fitment for the return hose was the 90° elbow. I have various fittings, I thought 45° would work better, but turned out 90 was ... for snaking the hose out the way.
The only issue is the tight space when you replace the alternators top support bracket. But it all fits.
Those quick connect fittings come in various types .. if you use rubber hose, you don't need "o-ring types", and the ones I got are basically once the (rubber)hose slides on, it DON'T come off .. the hose end just grips hard. I thought about not needing the clamp, but fitted anyhow. I initially thought the 45 elbow would fit nicely, but once fitted put too much pressure on the hose. Couldn't get the hose off without slicing it open! .. bah! .. anyhow
I reckon the o ring types would be better suited for (hard) nylon type hosing ..

Not a lot of pressure on the return lines, but still get high quality hose for it all. I think the heat/cool cycles may affect the hose eventually. I fitted originally to bros TD5 years back(about 2017-2018 or so) and only slid the fuel hose onto the quick release pipe and secured with a couple of hose clamps. Held for many years and klms, but did eventually fail. Caused me a lot of grief to refit on the side of the road. Then held up nicely again for a few months. Too busy to fix it properly back then.

Then I had the the necessary fittings and hose and stuff, and time to remove the side of the road fix job. Impossible! again, I just used the same hose as before(the one that suddenly let go) and two new clamps and a tie strap to maintain upward pressure on the hose clamp so it don't suddenly fall off again. hose clamps off, hose would not come off. Heat/cold lube spray .. hose was firmly stuck on the pipe. Again had to slice hose at the pipe to release it off the pipe.

As you said, whoever designed that small piece is a moron. LR used so many quick connect fittings all over the fuel system, and they could easily have had a similar half fuel pipe half hose type assembly for that with quick connects as well.
Stupid half @$$ed halfwits doing half baked jobs!

But in saying that, some other diesel fuel return line designs are actually worse! I recently did the injectors on a Peugeot HDi .. nice easy method to remove and refit .. takes a few seconds to do 4 lines. But they snap/break just standing around whilst on smoko! .. job all boxed up and "ready to go" and then you see the fountain of diesel with the ignition on .. bah!