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Thread: Battery positive lead fell off now car is immobilised

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Battery positive lead fell off now car is immobilised

    Hi,

    I'm hoping for a bit of help please.
    The D2a TD5 failed its WOF (yearly inspection) because the same stop light blew again and the fog lights were out of alignment. So I drove it home, disconnected the fog lights (inspectors suggestion) and replaced the bulb again. I replaced that same bulb yesterday when checking out the car. Repairs sorted, I jumped in and started it and then the engine died with no dash lights. The positive battery terminal had come loose (also again) so a loss of electric power. I filed the terminal to get it to crimp tighter, fitted it and the car started. On the way to the testing station I stopped to get more spare bulbs and the key wouldn't lock with the fob. The fob does work. I race in and out with the bulbs, the car stared so I went back to the testing station. left the car, went back to pick it up and the inspector had locked the car with the key via the door lock.

    I can unlock the car and gain access. The car won't start. The red flashing lights keeps flashing. Shutting the door and vainly trying the fob still does nothing. I dragged it home and disconnected the car battery. Cleaned up the terminals again just in case. Hooked everything up. The fob light goes but the car won't lock or unlock. Open the door, key in ignition, turn the key and nothing happens.

    Why has the battery terminal coming off immobilised my car. The battery terminal came off last weekend when my son and I were out 4 wheeling (probably another story). In that instance I just hooked the battery up and it started no issues. So what's going on this time?
    '00 D2 V8 The orange off road truck. 2" lift, made my own rear bumper, still working on the front one
    '03 D2a TD5 The silver on road daily driver

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    This kind'a thing happens.

    1./ get rid of the stupid pos battery terminal at your earliest convenience, and replace with any clamp type end that will certainly do a better job that the original type.

    2/. you need the EKA code for your vehicle. a sequence of numbers that relate to the turning of the key in the drivers door lock. 4 numbers, and each number represents the number of turns that are required for the key to turn.
    Hopefully if you have the owners manual and or service book, the EKA code may be in the folder that they come in .. or in the glovebox or somewhere ...

    eg. say your EKA code is 2 2 2 2, then you turn the key in the drivers door lock 2 time to the right(clockwise) and 2 times to the left(anti) and 2 CW and 2 ACW again .. this will un-immoblise the security unit and you're good to go again.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your help Arthur.

    1./ get rid of the stupid pos battery terminal at your earliest convenience, and replace with any clamp type end that will certainly do a better job that the original type.

    Yep, on the list.

    2/. you need the EKA code for your vehicle. a sequence of numbers that relate to the turning of the key in the drivers door lock.

    I suspected that, but the majority of "solutions" google found for me was about trying to get the door open. I don't have the codes and it was too late when we got home tonight to ring the dealership which I'll be doing 1st thing tomorrow.

    Cheers
    '00 D2 V8 The orange off road truck. 2" lift, made my own rear bumper, still working on the front one
    '03 D2a TD5 The silver on road daily driver

  4. #4
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    Hi. As long as the fob does nothing you are stuck immobilised unless you remobilise it with EKA code or restore the fob's function, if the battery clamp failed with engine running the electronics of the vehicle could have got a high voltage spike from the unloaded alternator then everything is possible. You should get the EKA code FOC from a LR main dealer or pay to get it online from one of the providers and pray that the BCU is still the original on the vehicle and it wasnt ruined otherwise you'll have to replace it with an unlocked one which involves complex programming with nanocom or similar. Good luck
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by James NZ View Post
    Thanks for your help Arthur.

    1./ get rid of the stupid pos battery terminal at your earliest convenience, and replace with any clamp type end that will certainly do a better job that the original type.

    Yep, on the list.
    Just do it right now, coz you're focused too much on getting the car started instead of fixing an issue that may be the cause of it and can stuff you up all over again 5 seconds after you spent time and money to get it going coz it was still 'on the list'.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Just to wrap this up...
    I had the battery out overnight. The terminal was "on the list" cos its a bit tricky getting parts when the shops are closed. However this morning I did source the terminal and fixed everything up. Decided to try my luck before chasing down the eka number from the dealer and pushed the unlock button on the fob. The rest of the doors unlocked so put the key into the ignition and it started straight away. Took the key out, locked it with the fob, unlocked it with the fob, started it and it ran then repeated the whole thing again. So with it working I used the nanocom to read the eka number and have written it down. This weekend when I have a bit more time I will change the code to something easier to remember.

    Thanks for all the help.
    '00 D2 V8 The orange off road truck. 2" lift, made my own rear bumper, still working on the front one
    '03 D2a TD5 The silver on road daily driver

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