Thread: Ticking from driveline when off throttle?

So, im thinking my issues are front diff related. I've looked at the prop shaft and everything is nice and tight, no slop or obvious issues there. Although, there was a fair bit of play on the transfer case output shaft...... not sure how i feel about that for now.

But having the front end raised off the ground highlighted the ridiculous amount of play there was in the front diff. Almost a quarter of a turn on the prop shaft before one of the wheels moved.

Pulled the plug, drained the oil and its a bit of a mess in there

So for anyone playing along at home, the front diff is completely U/S. I've got a bit of work ahead of me sorting this out.

Hard to get a photo because of the angle but can see clear as day through the fill point that the diff pin has completely flogged out the housing, snapped the cotter pins and is free to move in all directions. Not ideal. I'm amazed it didn't explode.

Looks exactly like this screenshot from a video i found on YouTube.

Wow! a good save there.
Regards PhilipA

Seen lots like this, I usually replace with ATB, but if your on a budget I'll probably have some old standard 2 pin centres around here, you can have for postage cost.

Philip, I would have revamped around 30 xyz switches, none failed due to water ingress, FWIW.

Ditto front prop u/j's, it's usually soon after someone fits a lift and the already old u/j has to run at a different angle where there is very little old grease to lube the rollers.
This causes excessive heat, causing the cups to go shiny and is the first symptom, easily picked up with a visual before other symptoms and catastrophe .

Of course they will eventually fail without a lift but most have seen at least 15 years service by then.
I rebuild with greaseable U/J's.

The RH A/C drain drips around 75mm forward of the U/J when stationary, then when the vehicle is moving, the shaft spins easily enough for centrifugal force to dissipate the water.

If these were to fail from water, then it would be best to stay at home when it rained, never mind the multiple creek crossings the D2's around here do without problems.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Seen lots like this, I usually replace with ATB, but if your on a budget I'll probably have some old standard 2 pin centres around here, you can have for postage cost.

Philip, I would have revamped around 30 xyz switches, none failed due to water ingress, FWIW.

Ditto front prop u/j's, it's usually soon after someone fits a lift and the already old u/j has to run at a different angle where there is very little old grease to lube the rollers.
This causes excessive heat, causing the cups to go shiny and is the first symptom, easily picked up with a visual before other symptoms and catastrophe .

Of course they will eventually fail without a lift but most have seen at least 15 years service by then.
I rebuild with greaseable U/J's.

The RH A/C drain drips around 75mm forward of the U/J when stationary, then when the vehicle is moving, the shaft spins easily enough for centrifugal force to dissipate the water.

If these were to fail from water, then it would be best to stay at home when it rained, never mind the multiple creek crossings the D2's around here do without problems.

Im going to send you a message mate, unfortunately yes this will be a budget build so need to weigh up options. Too many irons in the fire so to speak, which sucks. Its such a good opportunity to build something that won't ever break again but **** happens

Originally Posted by shayne86

**** happens

Indeed it does, Replied to your P.M.

I’ve got two here as well if that doesn’t work out, not sure of your location thou.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Seen lots like this, I usually replace with ATB, but if your on a budget I'll probably have some old standard 2 pin centres around here, you can have for postage cost.

Philip, I would have revamped around 30 xyz switches, none failed due to water ingress, FWIW.

Ditto front prop u/j's, it's usually soon after someone fits a lift and the already old u/j has to run at a different angle where there is very little old grease to lube the rollers.
This causes excessive heat, causing the cups to go shiny and is the first symptom, easily picked up with a visual before other symptoms and catastrophe .

Of course they will eventually fail without a lift but most have seen at least 15 years service by then.
I rebuild with greaseable U/J's.

The RH A/C drain drips around 75mm forward of the U/J when stationary, then when the vehicle is moving, the shaft spins easily enough for centrifugal force to dissipate the water.

If these were to fail from water, then it would be best to stay at home when it rained, never mind the multiple creek crossings the D2's around here do without problems.

Now there ya go! ….. re water ingress in the U/Js, what you wrote has always been my thinking.
I’ve always greased my U/Js at every oil change, and so far so good (2 owners, 450k km total thereabouts and 200k km in my ownership).