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Thread: Dilemma - sunk cost fallacy

  1. #31
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    So I had Mornington Prestige take a look at the car, their first line was similar to Ritter's - 'I wouldn't spend any more money on that car'

    The chassis crack was the main thing again, and from the laundry list Ritter gave me, they gave me some conservative ballparks:
    • All steering tie rod ends need replacing - $500
    • Front axle upper and lower ball joints need replacing both sides - $1200
    • Sway bay D rubbers need replacing front and rear - $100
    • Engine fan bearing worn/freeplay - $580 (to change the bearing and punch a couple of grub screws through the aluminium housing)
    • Right transmission mount split - $150-200


    They also reckon my front shocks and springs need replacing - which will only make the crack likely to grow until that's done, but isn't a particularly cheap bandaid if I don't end up keeping the car. Quoted $1500.

    They couldn't find any faults on the ACE system so that must have been an ancient fault that Ritter cleared and hasn't come back.

    On top of that the rear brake pads are still low, and I still don't have any signal to my reverse lights/camera. I pulled the XYZ apart a couple of weeks ago and it had been changed to the 2003ish model which replaced the rotary contacts that failed in the old ones. Still, I sanded the contacts and put it back together, but no signal. I feel the fact I lost the signal when the transmission was reconditioned is unlikely a coincidence but I'm unsure where to look from here. I haven't bothered taking it back at the time as I had some serious family stuff in play, and I have reverse worklights I can manually trigger (same with the camera). Still, not roadworthy.

    So aside from the XYZ mystery, looking at about $4k+ based on the ballparks. Some of this list I could definitely tackle myself and save some coin, other things I wouldn't be confident about.


    ​BUT BACK TO THE MAIN ISSUE AT HAND...

    I had a friend who's a very proficient metalworker and machinist look at the chassis crack, which appears to be halfway up the driver side, across the bottom, and all the way up on the passenger side. Photos below with crack circled in green, also showing the crappy patch weld that was done by a previous owner.

    Screenshot 2023-01-19 125643.jpgScreenshot 2023-01-19 130348.jpg

    As far as I can tell it hasn't spread across the top yet, but it's a tight spot to inspect. My mate reckons it would be unwise to weld it without having access from the top - I feel that taking out the radiator and some hoses should give enough access without the steering box having to come out, albeit not the most comfortable access? See below - removing the parts circled in red

    Screenshot 2023-01-19 125548.jpg

    He would like to see pictures of the reinforcement plate LR used to produce, to see how it fits. Does anyone here have one fitted that they could send a couple of snaps of?

    Was also wondering about the option of adding a gusset - keeping clear of the steering rods....?
    Screenshot 2023-01-19 130859.jpg

    All (kind) opinions welcome...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    So I had Mornington Prestige take a look at the car, their first line was similar to Ritter's - 'I wouldn't spend any more money on that car'
    Your first post said that it would "break your heart" to kill this car.. Believe me, I know what you mean. I guess it's time to give thought as to what you would need to spend to get a replacement for it that was anything like as good as a D2. $4500 doesn't come anywhere close.

    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    The chassis crack was the main thing again, and from the laundry list Ritter gave me, they gave me some conservative ballparks:
    • All steering tie rod ends need replacing - $500
    • Front axle upper and lower ball joints need replacing both sides - $1200
    • Sway bay D rubbers need replacing front and rear - $100
    • Engine fan bearing worn/freeplay - $580 (to change the bearing and punch a couple of grub screws through the aluminium housing)
    • Right transmission mount split - $150-200


    They also reckon my front shocks and springs need replacing - which will only make the crack likely to grow until that's done, but isn't a particularly cheap bandaid if I don't end up keeping the car. Quoted $1500.
    A lot of that seems reasonable, apart from the spring/damper quote. It's a fairly simple job so the parts would need to be high qual to justify that. It's a job you could probably tackle yourself with a good jack and some decent tools.

    The ball joints aren't fun so that's not a bad price IMO. I'm doing mine soon, along with the engine mounts and I'm not looking forward to it, but it CAN be done at home. Same thing about the jack and tools.



    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    On top of that the rear brake pads are still low,
    Hardest part doing them is getting the stupid wheel off, and yours are probably not frozen on, as they have been off.

    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    and I still don't have any signal to my reverse lights/camera. I pulled the XYZ apart a couple of weeks ago and it had been changed to the 2003ish model which replaced the rotary contacts that failed in the old ones. Still, I sanded the contacts and put it back together, but no signal. I feel the fact I lost the signal when the transmission was reconditioned is unlikely a coincidence but I'm unsure where to look from here.
    Loose or broken connection, pinched wire, blown fuse.... Easily done during a transmission change. Surprised MP didn't diagnose that one while they had it.

    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    BUT BACK TO THE MAIN ISSUE AT HAND...



    All (kind) opinions welcome...
    Staying out of that, apart from saying that you'll love taking the radiator out.....

    Back to the first point. How much do you like the car? With what you have already done, and if it's in good overall condition then you will find it hard to replace it IMO.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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  3. #33
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    I know $4,500 is a “chunk of change” but as Jay tee said, it won’t go very far in buying a replacement that will have the capability of your D2.
    you have a treasure in your friend Who will weld up the chassis.
    best. Jeff.
    98 Disco 1 V8 (Gone) Young family; so much fun..
    00 Disco 2 V8 (Gone) Mrs Jeffoir's..
    02 Disco 2 V8 (Gone) What a lovely exhaust note..
    07 Disco 3 TDV6 Still going strong..
    12 Disco 4 SDV6 Mrs Jeffoir's..
    13 Disco 4 SDV6 Great days lie ahead Comrades..

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    .....engaged the suspension lift, squirted soapy water everywhere, no leak. Now keeping a bottle of soapy water in the car, but I feel it's unlikely to be a hose leak if it's inconsistent...?
    That could be due to folds in the airbag sealing a leak, although at full ride height that seems unlikely, unless the bag is touching against something that is sealing it.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    [*]All steering tie rod ends need replacing - $500
    Hmm, tie rod ends cost about $45 each. There are only 4 of them (2 on the track rod, 2 on the drag link) or is the D2 like the P38A in that the whole track rod or drag link has to be replaced because the tie rod end on one end is crimped in and can't be changed?
    Ron B.
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  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    Oh and re: the chassis crack recall bracket - they're apparently obsolete. If anyone had the part number, or better yet, the specs for the bracket, that would be really helpful as I could get a mate to make one up without faffing about measuring everything up under the car.
    I'm surprised LR don't have any. Here's what Scouse wrote in 2010. He worked for a dealer at the time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    The number is actually KVZ000120.

    There's over 400 of the patches sitting in LRs Australian warehouse.
    I really doubt they'd have sold all of them. Note KVZ, not KUZ.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    or is the D2 like the P38A in that the whole track rod or drag link has to be replaced because the tie rod end on one end is crimped in and can't be changed?
    Yes. I have one taking up space in the back.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post



    I really doubt they'd have sold all of them. Note KVZ, not KUZ.
    No, but they could easily have disposed of them.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #39
    p38arover's Avatar
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    True.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    True.
    I hope not. If we find them I reckon I'll want one for sure. I'll find out soon.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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