Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 45

Thread: Dilemma - sunk cost fallacy

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    54
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Dilemma - sunk cost fallacy

    Howdy

    I've just had my D2 in for a bill of health with Ritter, it hadn't had a full check up in a couple of years. It's a 99 Td5, 340,000kms, no lift, AT tyres on standard rims, rarely goes offroad. Had the transmission recoed by Manuel Auto in Melbourne in April and battery changed around June.

    I usually take the car to Mornington Prestige but they were booked up for the year. I booked the car in 2 months ago with no major noticeable issue at the time - then in the week before I took it in, the right air suspension started leaking and the tank overflowed when I fuelled up the car. Yikes.

    Then Ritter came back with quite the shopping list - when they called me the first thing they said was 'how much do you care about the car?' Bad start, although the answer is a great deal.

    See below. I took the car to Perfect Panels to have the cracks looked at on Ritter's advice - the firewall mount crack is an easy fix but the other is a doozy. Someone in the last 20 years did a dodgy welding job instead of putting in the 'standard' reinforcement bracket, and the crack reappeared. Might have been like this since before I bought the car 3 years ago but hard to tell. I wasn't aware of this D2 special at the time.

    Screenshot 2022-12-25 134940.jpg

    Screenshot 2022-12-25 135149.jpg

    Screenshot 2022-12-25 135215.jpg

    Attachment 182658

    Attachment 182657

    Gerard from Perfect Panels tells me the steering box has to come out which they would ask Ritter to do, then tow it to them, fix it up, tow it back, put it back together. They reckon about $3.5k wouldn't be far off. That's before I look at everything else on the list.

    Looks to me that I'd also be in for:
    - $2k+ to change the airbags and air compressor, or maybe half that to change to coils
    - $??? for the fuel leak - hoping it's the pump gasket but I haven't bothered cracking the latch open until I work out if it's worth the effort
    - $2k+ to change the inhibitor switch - unless it's a contact issue which I haven't checked but would hope Ritter would look at that...
    - $600 for rear brake pads
    - $1-3k for the ACE depending on what this unearths
    - $2k+ for tie rod ends, D rubbers, etc.
    - $1.5k for a new windscreen and having underlying rust ground off and repainted at the top - you can't see the rust but there is water ingress. The windscreen might pass a RWC but the wipers arms would need to be changed as they're pretty 'smeary'

    Gerard told me - 'just sell it and don't look back', and he hasn't seen the list. He's had a few D2s in his time and he's been scarred. There's some wisdom in there I'm sure.

    Mechanically, the car drives well. I had naively hoped the transmission reco would be the big expense for a few years. The engine runs well, doesn't skip a beat. Had the head etc. done just before I bought it.

    The options running through my head are:

    1. Full hog - looks like $10-15k. Until something else pokes up. Can't justify it.
    2. Put out the fire - address main RWC issues, likely $5-10k - until something else pokes up. Can't really justify it to sell - wouldn't get too much more than that back I would think.
    3. Wreck it - between the recoed transmission, ARB bullbar, alloy roof rack, 5x new tyres, and everything else, there's probably $5K+ in it, although I've never sold a car for parts. And it would break my heart.

    I'm wondering if the chassis crack could be repaired without taking the steering box out - i.e. grinding off and welding what is accessible, and welding a fat reinforcing bracket made to fit as is. It wouldn't last 10 years but I don't expect to get that out of the car. My mate is a boilermaker and could fabricate something to fit and weld it in place.

    Also short of getting a RWC, how worried should I be about the inhibitor switch? I noticed the reverse camera/lights didn't trigger since I got the car back from the transmission reco. Had M & S lights on a couple of occasions initially, but not since. My mother passed away shortly after getting the car back, and after dealing with that (overseas 2 months) I was so behind on work, having to turn on the reverse camera/rear floods manually was the least of my concerns. I asked Ritter how likely it was that the transmission mechanics buggered the inhibitor switch - they said the timing was more likely coincidence.....?

    Any thoughts or experienced opinions welcome, it's all pretty overwhelming right now...
    Last edited by p38arover; 27th December 2022 at 03:41 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,051
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Most of those prices are seriously taking the ****, $600 for brake pads - I think not.
    Airbags I think arnott are the go, compressor parts are available or just put coils in with parts off a wreck.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've never seen a greater list of highway robbery prices in my life. As Nick says, $600 for rear pads? But that's just getting started. Sure, a new XYZ switch can be dear, but it take 15 minutes to fit, and they can be repaired. $2K for airbags? One hour, tops, to change, and they can be had for around $500 for the good ones, BOTH of them, not each. Compressor, there are kits for those. $1K for 2 coils? What are they made out of? Myrrh? The spring bases are cheap, and it takes 15 minutes to tap the holes to bolt them on. I paid $270, less than a year ago, for a new windscreen, fitted. There are a couple of possible causes for the fuel leak, usually an easy fix.

    Find a good indie. Heck, find a BAD indie. I'm not allowed to say what I think of, or have heard about, Ritters, but I'll never go there. Ever. There are plenty of places that want to help you keep a Disco going without needing a lottery win. They may not have shiny floors in their workshops or an espresso machine in their reception, but they'll do a good job.

    Obviously I cannot comment on the body repairs, but I reckon a second opinion there might be worthwhile also.

    Sheesh.

    PS, after re-reading your post it seems highly likely that the XYZ switch is minimally out of adjustment if all it is is that the reverse lights don't come on. Also, repair the SLS. You'll regret changing to coils. I know I do.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by tzioup View Post
    My mate is a boilermaker and could fabricate something to fit and weld it in place.
    Get him to have a look. Probably do a better job.

    Removing the steering box is not a job I want to ever do, but it ain't impossible, and it doesn't cost the price of a car to do it.

    Oh, and what's wrong with the ACE, or was that just something they added to their laundry list?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    13,671
    Total Downloaded
    0
    That looks grossly over quoted to me. There is also a recall brace for the steering box which looks like a seriously HD bit of Angle steel which gets welded in.

    Take it somewhere else, there are plenty of other LR specialists in Victoria.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    Mackay
    Posts
    170
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The reality is that if you want to own an older vehicle that does not have a great deal of resale value, you really do need to consider doing as much of the repairs and maintenance yourself as you can. Only you can decide if you have the ability to take on a particular job, but for each job you do, the less likely it is you will encounter an "uneconomical repair".

    If you are unable or unwilling to do the work, and there is no emotional or sentimental attachment then the wisest choice is to get rid of it and invest the money into something that will ultimately be less costly to own.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    13,981
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The reality of owning a 20+ year old car is that you have to do everything that you CAN do yourself.
    I too blanched at the $600 brake pads!
    Discs are only about $120 and the pads are just over $100. I have spares which I bought from someone who sold his D2 and I keep an eye on Facebook marketplace for something that may come up.
    If the XYZ is faulty I think they are expensive like $800 expensive but where is the other $1200. Like 10 hours of labour for a 1/2hour job? Easy to DIY especially as yours doesn't have catalyst which gets in the way.

    Geez no mention even of the most common failure areas like the front propeller shaft, and transfer case leaks.
    Wow it looks like they just do not want the job to work on a dirty old D2 and would prefer to work on sparkly D4s and 5s.
    Regards PhilipA

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    15,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Easy to DIY especially as yours doesn't have catalyst which gets in the way.
    Even that only takes 15 mins to drop. Last year I had to fix the top cooler pipe on the side of the road ( my fault, old O ring was left in the hole, fail to proceed ). Needed to drop the cat and the xyz. Hardest part of the job was topping up the trans oil through the stupid bung.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Gippsland
    Posts
    1,504
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Wow it looks like they just do not want the job to work on a dirty old D2 and would prefer to work on sparkly D4s and 5s.
    Regards PhilipA
    Yup! - that was a "go away" quote for sure
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Gippsland
    Posts
    1,504
    Total Downloaded
    0
    NB: For some reason, the photos attached to the original post won't open and a message appears "invalid attachment"
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!