Thread: D2 Td5 Remap and Auto Trans Cooler

The standard TD5 torque converter is basically a clutch that slips to allow the engine to reach boost.
and thats just with the weight of the car, add another two Ton and---
I added a second cooler that only opens after 80deg's, placed it as far forward from the rad as possible,

Originally Posted by Rick001

Auto Trans Cooler pipes - I have read that these have been known to part way where the rubber hose is swaged to the steel pipe. Is it an option to cut the swage off and replace the rubber hoses using good quality worm drive clamps to clamp them on?

IMO that's a definite NO. Replace them, or have someone like EnZed or Pirtek remake them. They can really be a showstopper. There's talk on another thread about this: 4HP22e cooler line pressure?

Here are my thoughts, not all will agree with them.

ECU upgrade - these increase engine heat (EGTs I'm talking about, not water temps). considering you have a lot of weight on the back and the caravan is like a big wind break, you're always going to be on the power and so youll always be pushing the EGTs up. My biggest concern with ECU upgrades is the heat. Don't get me wrong, I've had these for the last 20 years. There are quite a few upgrades out there that I think allow the EGTs to climb too high and with towing use they will always be up there. I would be very cautious if you do an ECU upgrade, and if you do it at all then I would be doing one that is very mild. I run and upgraded ECU and Upgraded intercooler and am always really conservative when towing up hills.

Intercooler. upgrade - these decrease engine heat (EGTs). Absolutely. Some say you need an ECU upgrade for these to do anything. I call BS on that. My seat of the pants dyno tells me the larger intercooler gives as much as a basic ECU. I would do this before touching the ECU. The early D2 has an intercooler core about 1/2 thickness of the tanks, the late D2 intercooler has a core about 3/4 thickness of the tanks and aftermarket upgrades have intercooler cores the full thickness of the tanks. I would do this.

D2 standard vs Upgrade (Tombie 2005)



ATF cooler - yes absolutely. If you do ECU/Intercooler upgrades then I think this is a must do anyway. There are 2 options. A thicker one in the standard location such as a P38 ATF cooler, an additional cooler. My thoughts there are that in the standard location the ATFcooler doesnt get good airflow as it is between the AC condensor and the Radiator. It also gets blocked really easily and you cant clean it out unless you pull the radiator out - thats not a small job like on most other cars. The alternate is a 2nd inline radiator, that gives way more cooling and especially when towing you want to do everything to keep the tranmission temps as low as you can. The 2nd ATF cooler mounts behind the drill, the air can go around it also so that you still get full cooling to the AC, Intercooler and Radiator pack. I recommend the Davis Performance ATF cooler as its the right size, has proper pressure fittings and splices into the existing ATF lines. Hose clamps are not good enough for the ATF lines, don't even think about it, they all need to be pressure fittings.

Standard ATF Cooler and Davis Performance ATC cooler installed.

Don't see a whole lot there to disagree with, Simon. I don't have the experience to comment on the ECU stuff, but I reckon most of what you have said would be common sense on most cars, not just D2s. In general car makers do just enough, which is why there is such a modifying industry, and I'm not talking 'roo bars and inverters.

Not much in the way of airflow here.....
IMG_3593.jpgIMG_3594.jpgIMG_3596.jpg

Originally Posted by Tins

Not much in the way of airflow here.....

The D2a intercoolers are a big improvement too!

I don't know how anything cools in the radiator pack. 4 radiators in there.

If you are going to remap and tow...

I would fit an EGT gauge, it's a no brainer in my opinion.

Auto cooler upgrade is also handy, but I'd also fit an auto and engine temp monitoring tool, it really can save a_lot_of_tears.

Even with an upgraded auto cooler, you'd be amazed how hot they can get towing when unlocked.

The intercooler upgrade (assuming you have the updated EU3 cooler) would be last on my list, but still a good idea.

It's line ball between intercooler and VGT next TBH.

They will both lower EGT, but one will give you the ability for a lot more torque... But$$$

Not downplaying what Slunnie said, I agree, but you should already have the better cooler, and money could be spent more effectively elsewhere... For a start anyway.

If you had the early EU2 intercooler like Slunnie has pictured, that would probably be first.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

The standard TD5 torque converter is basically a clutch that slips to allow the engine to reach boost.
and thats just with the weight of the car, add another two Ton and---
I added a second cooler that only opens after 80deg's, placed it as far forward from the rad as possible,

Pedro. Can you give us some info on your auto cooler?

I am wanting to fit one soon as I am preparing the D2 for a Simpson desert crossing towing Tvan