Discovery 2 TD5 Auto - Possible Transmission issue

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Originally Posted by Kingfordy

(Silly question). Where exactly is the valve body? and how would i check to see if anything is wrong with it?

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Err.. not a job for the faint of heart: Some of the gunk you may find.

Attachment 183169Attachment 183174Attachment 183175

Valve body removed. I didn't take a pic of it in situ.

Attachment 183170

Part dismantled
Attachment 183171

It's chock full of springs and valves and check balls which are of differing sizes you can't see just with your eyes... well, I couldn't.

Attachment 183172

Attachment 183173

Dunno if you can see the oil colour on your screen, but it was a bit brown, and it stank. I couldn't find any nasty bits anywhere blocking anything though.

The trans had lunched it's A clutch, as many of them seem to. It began like yours, only I could always get reverse.

One thing I would say if it is the trans: Don't do what I tried to do and go cheap. There's an old saying " The poor man pays twice ". It's true, only in my case it's probably closer to three times.

If you go ahead with getting it done, talk to Slunnie about coolers.

I didn't reply earlier, but as soon as I read the OP I thought the tranmission was overheated and toasted, it will probably have shrapnel all through it from the clutch plates breaking down and it will need a rebuild. The transmission rebuilder will also question the ATF cooler because they don't know that it isn't blocked also from the fragments that will have gone through the system.

My expensive experiences are that you want to keep the ZF as cool as you can (without being silly). I suspect that you will need a rebuild on the auto, the ATF cooler will need replacing (or you can spin that roulette wheel), and I would recommend an additional ATF cooler to keep it cool. Also externally clear out your radiator, Condensor and ATF cooler.

The additional ATF cooler needs to be a proper pressure one with pressure fittings - no push on with hose clamps, they're not good enough. I recommend this one.
Aux Transmission Oil Cooler

Do it properly and do it once. I think the additional ATF cooler should have been a factory fitment and then many of these issues would probably have never happened.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

I think the additional ATF cooler should have been a factory fitment and then many of these issues would probably have never happened.

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Totally agree. The trans is fine in a Beemer. It's also fine pootling around 'greenlaning' in the British isles, or towing a horsefloat 20 miles with the ambient temps there. It's NOT adequate for the far more arduous use common here in Aus. The cooler isn't up to the job, and, as stated elsewhere, I don't think the system carries enough oil for cooling.

Do it as Simon suggests, and get the packs upgraded to the 4HP-24 ones, upgrade the driveplate and/or bung in a beefed up torque convertor and never look back. It won't be cheap, but it's a ****load cheaper than another car with anything like the abilities of a D2.

Have a read of this thread: 4HP22e cooler line pressure?

There are very many others. The ZF auto could be seen to be a weak point in these cars, but it doesn't have to be if you take steps. If you are doing the trans, now is the time to take them.

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

The additional ATF cooler needs to be a proper pressure one with pressure fittings - no push on with hose clamps, they're not good enough. I recommend this one.
Aux Transmission Oil Cooler

Do it properly and do it once. I think the additional ATF cooler should have been a factory fitment and then many of these issues would probably have never happened.

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Simon. I wish to go down this road. How is the cooler you recommend plumbed up, as the one in the link does not have the necessary fitting to connect the hoses?

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Originally Posted by Kingfordy

Thanks for the replies,

When I was changing the oil. Yes I went through the gears when filling.

No I didn't change the filter, just the oil. However, this was changed about 2 services ago..

The dash shows the same gear as lever.

The oil did come out dark and burnt smelt, unfortunately.

Sometimes, the gear won't engage when selecting D or R. But sometimes it will first go. Likewise with the gear changes, sometimes they are smooth and normal. Sometimes it becomes harsh.

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<edit> oops, sort of addressed above
Potentially crap in the valve body solenoids.
Sounds like a valve body off, remove the solenoids and flush and refit proposition. Fiddly job as you have check balls, restrictors, etc to deal with and not lose/mix up.

Hopefully discorevy will comment whether I'm on the money or off.
Auto's aren't my strength.

How does the brains trust feel about transmission services without removing the pan? Reverse flushing 'til the fluid comes out clean, does this overcome the issue of the traditional method, not changing the fluid in the converter?

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

How does the brains trust feel about transmission services without removing the pan? Reverse flushing 'til the fluid comes out clean, does this overcome the issue of the traditional method, not changing the fluid in the converter?

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I do this on the Ford. Haven't tried it yet on the D2. On the Ford it's easy to access the pipework.

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

How does the brains trust feel about transmission services without removing the pan? Reverse flushing 'til the fluid comes out clean, does this overcome the issue of the traditional method, not changing the fluid in the converter?

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I just do multiple fluid changes so you are getting a complete change by dilution. I have about 16l on-hand atm to do just that.
I'd still drop the pan at some point and change the filter though, especially if it hasn't been done in a while.
That also gives you the opportunity to check and clean the magnets as well as the screen so you can get an idea if everything is A-Ok or not.

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Originally Posted by d2dave

Simon. I wish to go down this road. How is the cooler you recommend plumbed up, as the one in the link does not have the necessary fitting to connect the hoses?

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Hey Dave,

I don't think I've provided enough clarity, or chosen my words well enough. Just to do so.

The pic below is an aftermarket ATF cooler. I've circled the end on it where the ATF line attaches. On this, it is a flared end that the hose pushes over and then a hose clamp is put over it. This fitting is not reliable and will seperate in a Disco2

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...1&d=1673694725

The pic below is the Davis Performance additional ATF cooler. The fittings on that are multibarb and these fittings are pretty much what Pirtek use in some applications. They still use a hose clamp but will take the pressure unlike the flare fitting above. High pressure hydraulic fittings still use a multibarb inside like the DPL one, but use a swaged clamp on the outside instead of a hose clamp. The Disco2 lines run about 70psi, not thousands of PSI. This fitting is reliable.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...2&d=1673694725


For the DPL cooler (and probably every other), it isn't a case of unplugging the ATF line to the cooler and then plugging the additional ATF cooler into the two ends.

To fit the DPL additional cooler, where the ATF line goes over the steering box it is rubber line rather than metal line. That line gets cut, and the multibarb fittings are used to splice in the new ATF cooler. I've taken some photos and marked them so that you can see where it all goes and whats where. I hope this helps.

This pic so you can see where the ATF line is. It is between and below the intercooler hose and the battery box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...9&d=1673694725


This pic so you can see how the line is cut and the additional ATF cooler spliced into the line with house routing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...0&d=1673694725


Also the positioning of the additional ATF cooler - looking from under the vehicle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachmen...3&d=1673696137