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Thread: Discovery 2 TD5 Auto - Possible Transmission issue

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reddirt204 View Post
    .....
    Hope this is of some help and doesn't add to the confusion...

    cheers

    Redd
    Air con! I'll keep it in mind.
    I was planning on taking one up to my local hydraulic place, and see if he knows anything.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Air con! I'll keep it in mind.
    I was planning on taking one up to my local hydraulic place, and see if he knows anything.
    Local Pirtek didn't, but I just got them to do away with the QR bit and just swage it. Seems to me that there is no reason for the QR to let go, unless it's been disturbed. So, once disturbed, IMO it should be replaced. If I need to replace it every time it comes off then it's pointless. I'm sure it's possible to put them back together securely, but I'll never trust another one of that type.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Local Pirtek didn't, but I just got them to do away with the QR bit and just swage it. Seems to me that there is no reason for the QR to let go, unless it's been disturbed. So, once disturbed, IMO it should be replaced. If I need to replace it every time it comes off then it's pointless. I'm sure it's possible to put them back together securely, but I'll never trust another one of that type.
    Those quick connect/release fittings are made to be 'disturbed' . So all good for multiple on off. Just like the ones on the fuel block of the Td5, after all you don't go replacing them each time you need to do that nasty leaking regulator.

    I haven't come across any forums/threads where the connector let go off the cooler, but always the swages not holding the rubber hose seem to be the problem. And also seems to be the one going to the left side of the trans cooler.

    I'm taking one of mine (the left side coincidently) to Pirtek to get re swaged this week I think it will be fine for another 20 years after that.

    If I was inclined to play around I would replace both lines with braided high temp/pressure rubber hose and AN fittings as one length so no intermediate fail points.

    On my work vans (always bought used) I would move the trans cooler to the underbody and have much shorter lines to and fro and less clutter at the front. No issues.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    Those quick connect/release fittings are made to be 'disturbed' . So all good for multiple on off.
    Your choice. They were made to be disturbed 20 years ago.

    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    I haven't come across any forums/threads where the connector let go off the cooler,
    You have now.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #35
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    As long as they are clean, and correctly fitted, as in pushed home until a click is heard / felt then pulled back to ensure positive engagement, I can't see how they can fail!

    Personally, I've never had one fail.
    The swage fittings after 15-20 years though are a different matter.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    As long as they are clean, and correctly fitted, as in pushed home until a click is heard / felt then pulled back to ensure positive engagement, I can't see how they can fail!

    Personally, I've never had one fail.
    The swage fittings after 15-20 years though are a different matter.
    I've had one fail.

    But if you saw the difficulty I had removing it in the first place... Well it would make sense.

    Generally speaking though I've only had the hose come off the connector.

  7. #37
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    I've had one fail.

    But if you saw the difficulty I had removing it in the first place... Well it would make sense.

    Generally speaking though I've only had the hose come off the connector.
    compressed air around the fitting, lube of your choice, more compressed air usually works, but yeah, if you've had to use excessive force to remove, all bets are off.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    I've had one fail.

    But if you saw the difficulty I had removing it in the first place... Well it would make sense.

    Generally speaking though I've only had the hose come off the connector.
    I have had both. I didn't refit the QR connector, the bloke who did the trans did. Can't attest to how it was done, but it stayed put for around 1000 km., and was the beginning of a saga.

    The only point I would make is you trust them at your own discretion. It doesn't really matter where they let go, it's a show stopper either way and not worth the risk. These pipes are being faffed around with at 20 years and 300+ kms in some cases. Personally, I would consider them a service item at that point. They are way cheaper than another trans rebuild. Getting mine done at Pirtek cost around $100 each. The lack of a QR connector may be less convenient the next time the pipes need to come off, but I hope that's a long time away.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Your choice. They were made to be disturbed 20 years ago.



    You have now.
    Well in fact I did too, not long after posting that on this very forum last night I read another thread where they had popped off.

    But as far as I am concerned I will blame the operator 99 percent (I'd say 100 but crap does happen)

    In getting mine off and noting the difficulty, I actually then played around refitting and removing and noticed that it was sometimes 'clicking' but not as positive sounding and the black push to release fitting was not sliding fully forward, I would then slide it by hand and give the connector another push and then it held firm and no amount of reasonable (not trying for tug of war records) would get it to budge.

    All caused by the amount of gunge built up under the release slide. So cleanliness is godliness, I believe it is lack of cleaning and operator error as the design is not unique or limited in application to landrover.

    If you really want you can remove the slide completely and the connector once clicked on (properly) can only be removed by using a fuel line release tool or home made sleeve, with no fitting to collect gunge and leave it not quite locked on when refitted.

    Now I'm going to have an aspirin coz I am getting a headache wondering what I'm doing out of bed this early.

  10. #40
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    2new hose assemblies from Land Rover dealer are when I bought mine about $400+ so you are not saving much by faffing around with Pirtek .

    I believe the lh hose fails because that is the hot side.

    the new quick coupling on mine clicked home but some force had to be applied. I was happy to hear the click.
    regards PhilipA
    ps I think these should be routinely replaced at 200kk if they make it that far.

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