Thread: Discovery 2 TD5 Auto - Possible Transmission issue

Ahhhh, I see what you mean now. I thought you were using just the push on flared end with a hose clamp. I had no idea how that could be reliable in your Disco.

I'd imagine cutting the swage off, replacing the hose and then using a hose clamp over the multibarb would be fine.

Mystery solved.

Simon thanks for your pics and input.

You have I believe shown me what I will be happy doing.

Can you send me a link to the company and the particular cooler that you have used?

This cooler looks good and I see it has screw on fittings at the cooler. When I get the ends of my factory cooler changed to screw fittings

I should be able to have the whole set up done with screw fittings and eliminate hose clamps altogether.

Originally Posted by d2dave

Simon thanks for your pics and input.

You have I believe shown me what I will be happy doing.

Can you send me a link to the company and the particular cooler that you have used?

This cooler looks good and I see it has screw on fittings at the cooler. When I get the ends of my factory cooler changed to screw fittings

I should be able to have the whole set up done with screw fittings and eliminate hose clamps altogether.

The one that you pictured in the other thread, I've tried them and had them fail a number of times.

This one went in and to date has never had to be touched.

Hopefully this link works.

Aux Transmission Oil Cooler

Thanks Simon.

This one is a bit pricey compared to others. But if that is what I have to pay to get reliability, so be it.

If one was stuck in the middle of nowhere and a cheaper one failed, you'd be thinking, if only I had spent a bit more and got a good one.

An old saying. A poor man buys twice. If stuck in the desert it will be more than twice.

Another one. The taste of poor quality remains long after price is forgotten.

Originally Posted by d2dave

Thanks Simon.

This one is a bit pricey compared to others. But if that is what I have to pay to get reliability, so be it.

......

You could make your own kit up for a lot less $ if you are handy with some metal work yourself, and still maintain high quality gear.

I wouldn't (personally) worry about screw fittings for the original cooler, in my experience they don't seem to be an issue.
As long as you change the original lines to new ones, they seem to fail mainly at the crimp end at the hose, not so much at the quick fitting end.
All three that I've removed so far, have all been 'hard' to remove the quick fitting end off the cooler. I guess this is a problem if you regularly remove and refit.
But for long term durability, my experience is that this isn't an issue.

But as an example of some parts that you could use as an alternative, you could get a PWR 280x200 cooler for about $170 ish.
You'd then need some quality hose(about $20 depending on your preference.
a couple of fittings would probably cost in the $50-60 range for a couple of AN6 fittings and some multibarb for the hose.

All you'd have to work out would be some angle metal brackets to fit it somewhere neatly.

I see that you are in Tatura Dave, so finding a store that sells AN fittings may be difficult, but barb fittings should be able to be found at any speed/auto accessories place like SCA or repco ... etc.

If you want a physical store, I only know of VPW(vic performance warehouse) up in Epping. They've been helpful for my weird needs in the past.

side note: I've been thinking of doing an additional cooler to my TD5 too. Some years ago I had a bit of a scare where my Tdi had the trans light come on. Turned out that it was just a faulty trans temp sender, so all good.
But again as preventative maintenance too, I started to look into trans coolers and stuff too. I don't tow, but the brother has it in mind to do so in the future.
What I was thinking was instead of barb fittings and cutting and shutting the std lines, I was looking into using AN fittings and quick fit adapters, so that instead of cutting and barbing the std lines, just use the fixed quick release onto an AN fitting and again AN fitting at the additional cooler too. This way no bar fittings nor hose clamps. All screwed together, and a bit of thread seal to boot.
VPW also have trans coolers(and kits) for decent prices too.

I have to remind myself one day to measure the quick fit connector size for the trans cooler.

Anyhow, hope this helps save a few $.

Thanks Arthur. This could be a good way to go. Are these PWR coolers a good brand?

Looking at one it looks like the barb fitting screw in, which means I could change them to an AN fitting.

The reason I am going down the path of having AN fittings welded onto my cooler is as follows.

Cost. A new set of hoses is probably going to set me back about $600. It is only going to cost $100 to have the AN's welded to my cooler

I can then remove my cooling lines, chop the rubber piece off, braze a screw fitting to the steel pipe then get a hydraulic shop to make up the rubber bit.

I have not yet got a quote from a hydraulics shop, but I would not expect this to exceed $250. So a pipe that to me, is better than the factory original for about half the price.

I then have the added benefit that when the rubber bit is due for replacement, I just need to have a hose made up. It also gives the option to carry a spare hose should one wish to do so.

And lastly, the push on fittings. Whether or not they are reliable has been up for debate on this forum. Even if they are reliable I hate them. So I say, good riddance to them.

As for the AN fittings, there is also a place called Speed Flow in Thomastown that stock them.

I often travel to Melb as I go to the footy and Cricket and have family live there. I am originally from Melb myself, so having to source stuff down there is not an issue.

The mob doing the welding on the cooler are in Dandenong

Originally Posted by d2dave

Are these PWR coolers a good brand?

Qld based. I bought a PWR radiator for my son's kettle ( TD42 Patrol ) and the quality is excellent. I had it modified from their stock one, added another temp sender bung, with no issues. Just be carefull who you order it through...

yep!
PWR have a very good rep, here and other places.

This VPW recommended the Proflow brand they stock(and a bit cheaper) .. same screw AN pipe fittings.

I've seen that both manufacturers state up to 200psi rated .. so I'd think much of a muchness in terms of durability(I'm guessing).

Point to remember is I am no expert here, just guessing that this will work, or that will or whatever.

But, one thing I noted with my current removed trans cooler(it's off my V8, but basically the same thing.
The hose fittings are larger than -6AN, and closer to -8AN size.

PWR sell two types of 280x200mm trans cooler with both fitting types .. same money. Just the inlet and outlet threads fit the different connector sizes.

I'd personally choose the -8AN connector type.
There is the possibility that using the smaller -6AN fitting could be a restriction and potentially cause a pressure reduction in some way.

The std flexi section of the trans line is 13.5mm ID and 20mm OD.
the -8AN hose fitment is roughly similar ID size(actual 12.7mm).
the -6AN ID is 9.35mm, which I reckon for the sake of headroom and less chance of pressure or flow issues, may be too small.

So, if you were to build your own kit, then a PWR cooler with -8AN connection.
You'd cut and adapt some multibarb fittings for the flexible sections of hose.
Going by what others have done, and Slunnie has shown in this thread you only need to cut the one std cooler line rubber hose fit two multibarb adapters.

I'd choose multibarb to -8AN adapters here and go with AN fittings at all ends on the additional cooler. I'd use male on one side and female on the other.
This way you'd have a small amount of redundancy, in that say some damage occurred to the new cooler .. either durability issue or simply physical damage, and you had a loss of trans situation.
You could simply remove the new cooler out of the equation, and reconnect the std line via the male-female AN to barb adapters.

Theoretically you should be also able to do the same thing with barb to barb connectors, but having tried to remove multibarb connectors off hoses before, I recall that in all versions of this removal process, the only way to do it easily, has been to slice the hose at the barb end to get the hose off the barb. ie. there has always been a small loss of hose. If the install has been made where there hasn't been enough slack in the line accounted for, could end up being a situation.
Nut and bolt fittings always come off(pretty much) .. so just easier in the sense of a whoops moment.

also, I'd use t-bolt style hose clamps on the barb fitting too.

My idea of using the existing standard push fit connectors looks like a dead end. I then remembered why I gave up on my thoughts of doing the additional cooler install too. Just cant' find any info on the huge push fit connectors that LR use on the D2 trans cooler system. Same fittings used on the V8 oil cooler too. They're a 14.4mm sized push fit connector, and can't find any info on who make them, and if possible to get them.