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Thread: Sticky Key

  1. #11
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    Brake cleaner gave a slight improvement.
    Maybe bunnings or supercheapautobarn has it
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #12
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    Jul 2014
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    I had a similar ignition key issue several years ago. I squirted a SMALL amount of spray electrical Contact Cleaner in through the key slot, with a good result ever since.

    There might be erudite reasons why this was a "no no", but the empirical result was good.

    Andrew

  3. #13
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    Sep 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewMilne View Post
    I had a similar ignition key issue several years ago. I squirted a SMALL amount of spray electrical Contact Cleaner in through the key slot, with a good result ever since.

    There might be erudite reasons why this was a "no no", but the empirical result was good.

    Andrew
    Use of a solvent is usually no problem. The issue with oil based lubricants is that they hold dust and grime, causing the lock to bind. The very nature of a lock invites the entry of foreign material. A solvent can clean that out, within reason.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #14
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  5. #15
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    May 2015
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    Williamstown, Victoria
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    I have given the lock lots of lube. No change.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
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    I refer you back to post #2. The lock barrel is misaligned at the point where you try to remove the key. The wafers cannot move back to the position where they move freely out of the way of the key's teeth. This will only get worse as the wafers are weaker than the key itself and will be damaged if you keep forcing it. Does it come out freely if you wiggle it rotationally?

    You say you replaced the barrel. Was it a genuine one? The mechanism that positions the plug ( the bit the key goes into ), the detents if you like, always seem weak to me in the non genuine ones. But I'm guessing, as I can't see it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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