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Thread: Transmission Oil Cooler

  1. #1
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    Transmission Oil Cooler

    I am after a 2nd transmission cooler for my D2. There are lots of threads around about doing this

    Every one here says not to use push on hose with a hose clamp.

    I am looking at one of these Universal Dual Cooler Kit 3/8" (9.5mm Barb) | Wholesale Automatic Transmissions which I think is a good unit.

    It is made here in oz and going by the company spiel, it is a premium product.

    Now this one, like most, has push on fittings with hose clamp.

    I rang the company and they said it should be fine.

    So if these fittings fail, do they leak or blow off? I have a Simpson desert trip planned for August, so what ever I do, there will be plenty of time to test for reliability.

    They also reckon that this cooler is so good that I probably should just use it and delete the factory original, something I don't think I will do.

    I am so confused here.

    I am going to have my factory cooler ends changed to threaded ends to remove the possibility of hoses blowing off.

    So what do I do?

    Cost for this project is not an issue as I am building this car for out back trips, so want is to be as reliable as possible.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    I am after a 2nd transmission cooler for my D2. There are lots of threads around about doing this

    Every one here says not to use push on hose with a hose clamp.

    I am looking at one of these Universal Dual Cooler Kit 3/8" (9.5mm Barb) | Wholesale Automatic Transmissions which I think is a good unit.

    It is made here in oz and going by the company spiel, it is a premium product.

    Now this one, like most, has push on fittings with hose clamp.

    I rang the company and they said it should be fine.

    So if these fittings fail, do they leak or blow off? I have a Simpson desert trip planned for August, so what ever I do, there will be plenty of time to test for reliability.

    They also reckon that this cooler is so good that I probably should just use it and delete the factory original, something I don't think I will do.

    I am so confused here.

    I am going to have my factory cooler ends changed to threaded ends to remove the possibility of hoses blowing off.

    So what do I do?

    Cost for this project is not an issue as I am building this car for out back trips, so want is to be as reliable as possible.
    I don't think anyone said you can't use hose clamps and push on hose if it has a barb.

    You can't however use hose clamps and push on hose to attach directly to the stock cooler as the fitting is not a barb fitting, that's where the confusion has come in.

  3. #3
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    I would expect that fitting to blow apart.You need proper multibarb pressure fittings, not that type. It might be fine for Toyotas etc, but not the ZF in the Disco2. I wouldn’t have faith in that one, especially in the Simpson Desert.

    See the multibarb in this post - NOT the first picture but in the 2nd picture and circled in red.
    Discovery 2 TD5 Auto - Possible Transmission issue
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    I would expect that fitting to blow apart.You need proper multibarb pressure fittings, not that type. It might be fine for Toyotas etc, but not the ZF in the Disco2. I wouldn’t have faith in that one, especially in the Simpson Desert.
    X100. The cooler pipes really are a showstopper. No way would I head remote with a cooler setup I couldn't trust 100%. Too many bad experiences means to me that it just ain't worth it. I think your setup is possibly the best I've seen, Simon.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    Have to say too, judging by the pics I'm not impressed with the hose clamps Rod is supplying with that kit, Dave. Of course, they nay be better in the metal, but I've often seen clamps that look like that cutting into a hot hose.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    my 2 cents...

    If using barbed type fittings they need to be the "Push Lok" type and compatible hose (rated for 300-400psi and 150C) also you would want to use 1/2" hose and fittings, definitely do want any restrictions in the oil flow. I would think using the AN type fittings and hose would be better and simpler as carrying some spare hose and fittings you can do roadside repairs if needed.

    cheers

    Redd

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reddirt204 View Post
    my 2 cents...

    If using barbed type fittings they need to be the "Push Lok" type and compatible hose (rated for 300-400psi and 150C) also you would want to use 1/2" hose and fittings, definitely do want any restrictions in the oil flow. I would think using the AN type fittings and hose would be better and simpler as carrying some spare hose and fittings you can do roadside repairs if needed.

    cheers

    Redd
    Along with about 8 litres of fluid and a handy pump.... You probably won't need 8 litres, but you may need more than 4 By the time you realize it's gone and pulled it up it can dump an astonishing amount. The back half of my chassis isn't going to rust anytime soon.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    The back half of my chassis isn't going to rust anytime soon.
    Neither is mine for the same reason.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Along with about 8 litres of fluid and a handy pump.... You probably won't need 8 litres, but you may need more than 4 By the time you realize it's gone and pulled it up it can dump an astonishing amount. The back half of my chassis isn't going to rust anytime soon.
    Especially if it is drizzling and you think the fluid on the back window is rain, like happened when I had a diesel fitting let go!
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    Especially if it is drizzling and you think the fluid on the back window is rain, like happened when I had a diesel fitting let go!
    Didn't you wonder why the rear wiper stopped juddering?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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