D2a Td5 power issue

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Originally Posted by steveG

Finally got the D2 back and had a chance to do a quick log capture.

No idea really what I'm looking for - but here's the file. I can also post screen shots of what it looks like in the Nanocom CSV viewer if that's more useful.

Attachment 184105

Steve

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Had a quick look, most of the sensors seem ok, but the MAF is reading possibly a little low and you aren't making much boost... But a faulty MAF (depending on engine revision) could certainly cause that.

If you have an EU3 (can't remember if you said so) you can unplug the MAF.

But there could be a few other reasons and it's hard to remotely Diag.

Earlier posts have suggested a sticking wastegate, I've not really experienced it happen but it would be worth a look for sure.

A failed wastegate modulator or incorrectly adjusted wastegate rod or both could be a possibly.

Edit: just had another look, MAF definitely looking suss.. But it only matters if you are a late motor.

Either way, unplug and go for a spin.

Edit: edit:!! D2A so you have the late motor, the MAF is probably the issue.

Unplug.

Thanks Shack - appreciate you taking a look.

If the MAF is faulty, what behaviour should I expect when it’s unplugged?

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Shack - appreciate you taking a look.

If the MAF is faulty, what behaviour should I expect when it’s unplugged?

Steve

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Basically more normal behaviour.

If the MAF is under reading, then the ECU will inject less fuel in higher load situations.

What this means is you will have less power, because of that you will most likely end up with later hear changes.. I.E 1>2 2>3 3>4 will all occur later, converter lock up will happen later as well, if you get into an accel situation you will go from 4th lock to 3rd unlock just like that, and you'll be revving and going nowhere fast.

TL;DR.

You will be left with a car that needs it's neck ringing to get moving, all the while revving harder than it should, whilst never achieving full power.

Making some progress....

Unplugged the MAF - its like a different vehicle!
Builds power a lot sooner, put your foot down a bit and it will change down smoothly, and just keeps pulling smoothly through the upshifts as you accelerate. None of the upshift ==> bog down ==> wait ==> slowly build up again behaviour that was there previously.

Whats the go these days in regards to a replacement MAF?
Any particular brand or source - either good ones or to definitely to avoid??

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Making some progress....

Unplugged the MAF - its like a different vehicle!
Builds power a lot sooner, put your foot down a bit and it will change down smoothly, and just keeps pulling smoothly through the upshifts as you accelerate. None of the upshift ==> bog down ==> wait ==> slowly build up again behaviour that was there previously.

Whats the go these days in regards to a replacement MAF?
Any particular brand or source - either good ones or to definitely to avoid??

Steve

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I haven't personally noticed any difference between VDO and genuine, some will say genuine only.

One thing I'll guarantee is a cheap one that is not VDO or genuine will be terrible.

Better off with nothing than a cheap no name one based on the testing I've done.

I am no expert, but have employed a MAF delete hack that I found on YouTube, after I was suspect of my MAF performance . (Tried to find it again, for you, to no avail.)
Basically, a jumper wire is employed between MAF signal input and accelerator pedal input, at the ECU. ECU reads the pedal signal as MAF signal and fuels accordingly.
I understand that it's not ideal, but it certainly put some pep back into TD5 performance.

Found it. Probably been discussed before.
TD5 MAF delete hack.
Td5 Hack!! - YouTube
I am not suggesting that you employ this method, merely passing on information that I have learnt.

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Originally Posted by Bosco15

I am no expert, but have employed a MAF delete hack that I found on YouTube, after I was suspect of my MAF performance . (Tried to find it again, for you, to no avail.)
Basically, a jumper wire is employed between MAF signal input and accelerator pedal input, at the ECU. ECU reads the pedal signal as MAF signal and fuels accordingly.
I understand that it's not ideal, but it certainly put some pep back into TD5 performance.

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Forget those type of hacks. Misguided well meaning but not good advice at all. Been discussed to death on this forum too.

Just drive it with MAF disconnected as it is getting you by with adequate fallback performance, until you get a new one.

You can get EU3 performance tunes that do away with the MAF so there is the option to put the MAF dollars towards a tune instead, or 'downgrade' to an EU2 MAFless tune which is simpler to get power out of as it doesn't use the MAF for fuelling in the first place.

And of course I am obviously going to steer you towards shackbaby.

Being a complete noob to Disco's, I am following this topic closely. I knew that there would have been previous discussion on subject, so did a search.
Unsure if it's because I'm on Android phone or I'm just not doing it correctly, but when I search (Basic search. Advanced search. Entire site. Disco 2.) Keyword MAF, I get no results.
Now, I know that MAF is in here, why does search not result in any threads?
Cheers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bosco15

Being a complete noob to Disco's, I am following this topic closely. I knew that there would have been previous discussion on subject, so did a search.
Unsure if it's because I'm on Android phone or I'm just not doing it correctly, but when I search (Basic search. Advanced search. Entire site. Disco 2.) Keyword MAF, I get no results.
Now, I know that MAF is in here, why does search not result in any threads?
Cheers.

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You using an app, or a browser? We're all different, but personally I can't be bothered with the app. On a browser, at the bottom left of the page there is a search box that does a goggle search of the entire site. Try that.