Thread: Td5 starting issue

Originally Posted by chazzaemmo

In thought it could be the non return valve letting fuel back into the tank. Once I took the fuel filter head off and inspected the brass connectors I found that my non return valve was on the back right brass connector nor the back left (which is shown in diagrams). Also inspected the brass connector that would usually have the air bleed valve in it wasn’t there????? Not sure if you need that?

HI, first of all the air bleed valve is the only one compulsory and it should be in the rear wheel side port of the filter head, if it's not working well it can cause starting issues, the non-return vave is quite useless IMO as long as the 10Ps are starting and running perfect without it(so they left the factory) while on 15Ps can be found in two different places without any difference in the engine's behaviour, seems that nobody can tell 100% where it should normally be... mine never had NR valve but i had issues with the air bleed valve once(WJN500110)... see this Disco 2 - TD5 fuel issues / starting issues fix | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Originally Posted by sierrafery

HI, first of all the air bleed valve is the only one compulsory and it should be in the rear wheel side port of the filter head, if it's not working well it can cause starting issues, the non-return vave is quite useless IMO as long as the 10Ps are starting and running perfect without it(so they left the factory) while on 15Ps can be found in two different places without any difference in the engine's behaviour, seems that nobody can tell 100% where it should normally be... mine never had NR valve but i had issues with the air bleed valve once(WJN500110)... see this Disco 2 - TD5 fuel issues / starting issues fix | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Yeah rightio the thing is that my boss has a gold 2004 td5 and he’s car wasn’t starting and he found that the little air bleed valve was and mangled so he just took it out and it’s been running fine ever since so I also took mine out around the same time?? So why is his not playing up with it out and mine is??

Yeah righto that thing is though my mate has a gold 2004 td5 and his was having trouble to start and he found that the air bleed valve was all mangled and he just took it out and has been running fine ever since?? Why is his not playing up without it but mine is?

Seems that your problem is air in the system as it starts after you purge it so if you are convinced that it's not with the air beed valve and you fitted the copper washers tight and extremely clean then i'm affraid that it can be a crack in the head in a copper washer area. Did you anneal the washers and tightened the injectors to the required torque as in the book? if not maybe you should.... i've seen cases when this symptom dissapeared only after the washers were refitted with extreme care

My first question would be: who did the injector seals?
Mechanic? self?

This sounds like injector seals(again), and not knowing the full story of who dunnit and how well they were done ... would be my initial "guess".

When you try to start it(first time, or after some time) when it dies after 10 or so sec, do you do the usual method of ign on and start straight away, or do you go to ign on first for a short while, then hit the starter?

(assumption that) most people just hit the starter straight away, and if this is what you do, have you tried the "wait for the glow plug" method, where you hit the ign wait for the preheat(a few secs or so), then hit the starter.
Not really for the glow plugs to do their thing, but more so to let the fuel pump re prime up the fuel system a bit before it gets injected.

That is, it's obviously losing fuel pressure whilst sitting, and letting the fuel pump (sort of) prime it up again for a few secs may make a difference in that you may get more than 10-20sec of run time after start.

Did you get quality replacement parts(mainly fuel pressure reg and injector seals)?

Also, is it possible to get a fuel pressure gauge fitted to watch the pressure in the system in real time?

So I did the injector seals and washers myself which was all done by the book with gloves in and tightened to down to spec.

Are you saying that it might be a crack in the engine head and the base of the injectors???

Once the engine dies I have to put it though the purge twice then turn it over for a while then starts.

My thoughts were that if it was a crack in the head then it would play up when running as well??

Also a small amount of grease was used on the injector seals to help slide into place nice.

OEM parts were used for replacement.

Unlikely to be a crack in the head around the injectors ... most likely your sump would over fill with diesel too(would be very obvious).

Can you try the ign - wait - start method for starting next time, from cold?

There is always the possibility that one or more seals haven't seated/sealed correctly. When you did them, did you clean out the seat area in the head? Did you clean up the seat face on the injectors? ... etc.

When you did the FPR, did you replace the entire assembly? or just the regulator itself? Did you replace the seals .. specifically focusing on the small o-ring that seems to get stuck in the head at the gauze filter?
Did you pull the gauze filter out and give it a clean/inspection?

You haven't specifically mentioned that the oil level has been checked for fuel either, so I think many reading this thread assume that the sump level isn't rising too?

Yes I will try the ign on off on then start method when I get home from work today.

When doing injector seals I made sure the injectors seal seat was clean but not cylinder head.

I replaced the whole FPR and gasket and o ring while inspecting the little long mesh filter thing inside the head. Made sure all when back in nice.

Have seen any signs of oil level rise but will look again when I get home