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What a mission. One side done. Looks like a head skim would be a good idea and one of the valves looks like it isn't sealing...so hopefully they fix that too.
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Depending on how much you need to take off or has previously been taken off the head, you may need to machine the inlet manifold.
Second side was much easier.
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Out of interest, what method(s) did you apply to get that tough bolt out?
Heat (but 2deg C so ineffective), WD40 (ineffective as couldn't get to threads), hammer and brass punch (ineffective?). 12 sided 5/8 socket cheap ones and a sidchrome (ineffective and ruined), air and battery rattle guns tightening and untightening (ineffective?), Impact socket breaker bar (750mm) and tirfor handle fully extended 1.5mish) and elbow grease (effective).Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Tightest bolts known to man.
When reassembling use thread sealant. I have a tin of “Holden” three sealant that I bought after being recommended on this site AFAIR.
Mate I would spring for a set of ARP head studs if you can. Cheers
With the engine in place can you get the heads over the studs in a D2?Quote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
Yes mate. Works nice like. Cheers
Not sure if this would apply to the Rover V8, but I have an old car with an alloy head held down with steel studs. The first time I attempted to remove the head, the nuts came off easily, but I could not shift the head due to corrosion between the studs and the head, so if you do go for studs, some sort of anti seize precautions may be needed.
Cheers,
Woolly.