Think we were lucky the heads just about slid off.
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Think we were lucky the heads just about slid off.
They get tight, yes, brute force usually works. I remember cracking a rib once, when pushing with all my strength and when it let go, bang, my chest hit corner of the guard.
Had to sit and just look at it for 2 weeks, still 2 head bolts to go.
Never had a problem with ARP studs, removed heads after 4-5 years and no corrosion on studs.
On a D1, it was almost impossible to get heads on in car with the studs in place. Easy done, the ARP studs have 'allen' key inserts.
They can be fitted after head is on.
Now, for anyone who's done it, try removing heads from an old 3.8 or 4.2 Jaguar. That's a real challenge.
The studs go all the way down into the water jacket, corrosion alley.
Last one I did, years ago, I had the car front end lifted off the ground by the head for a few days, spraying something like CRC/rust remover down stud hole every day, followed by hours of swearing and bloodied hands.
Getting new studs plated before fitting was a must.
Heads at shop...$80 each side, which seems pretty reasonable. The guy said he can't get aluminium cleaning fluid at the moment and I should give them a good spray out with degrease to clean and clear swarf.
Heads back. Fella said no antifreeze for 500km when back together. Also replaced the dodgy valve that turn out to have a crack in it.
$246 all up.
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Bargain. My XR6 head cost more than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08
Noice mate.
Cheers
The boy reckons he'll put the heads on this weekend... am a bit worried as will be away on Land Rover club trip into the Southern Alps haha.
Did he say why no antifreeze?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08
Damages the new seals/gaskets I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyC
Came home to find good progress...heads back on and my son said the head bolts tightened up well.
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