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Tried rolling it over with with some start spray, it fires when it gets some spray in the inlet, so the problem is lack of fuel.
Fitted a new fuel pump, it was the original from the look of it, plugged half a dozen times, still nothing.
Running out of ideas now, any other suggestions
Quote:
Originally Posted by finallyrangie
Not necessarily. Compression ignition engines will run as long as there is, well, compression, and the valve timing is ok. Start spray will fire regardless of the engine's fuel supply. So, lack of fuel being injected will be the problem, and that requires a combination of things, most of which have already been mentioned.
I would still say the CPS, except you are getting an RPM reading.....
So back to the start, you changed injector cos running rough as and disconnecting injector made no difference so replaced that injector and code is correct,correct?
Adjustment is correct on injector?
How was the the copper washer?
Maybe you need to pull all injectors and replace copper washers and o rings.
Ecu harness was checked for oil I think I read so I’d be going to copper washers.
Some of this has already been mentioned... But...
If you can see RPM reported on the nano, it's not the CPS.
If you can hear the injectors clicking, it's not the wiring or plugs.
If you haven't got any faults showing, it's PROBABLY not noisy crank signal.
But it's probably something you did touch, assuming the fault was indeed a dodgy injector and not a failing ECU.
Make sure the ECU is not immobilised(unlikely).
My money would be on the injector bumps not set.
Also unlikely that injector seals would stop it running after a purge cycle... They will stop the engine running after a little while though if bad enough.
Remember, if it was running, you did some work and now it's not, it's something you touched.
It can also take some cranking to get them firing after fuel system integrity has been lost.
Cheers
This ^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMichelle
And this ^^^Quote:
Originally Posted by shack
Also, when doing this sort of work, after the 1, 2 or 3 purge cycles you will need to do, hold your foot flat on the go pedal until you feel it's trying to fire, then ease back.
Sometimes, if the copper washers are bad, no amount of purge cycles or cranking will get it to fire.
Spotless is what you need everything to be when doing the job, no carbon anywhere.
on the head side of where the washers sit, I use a valve lapping stick with bits of nylon scourer pad stuck on, cleaned frequently with brake cleaner.
Far out! That surprises me, but you've got the runs on the board! I'll happily yield....Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
Only thing that hasn't been mentioned is the fuel pressure.
There is no sensor for the ECU or nanocom to read it, so only way to check it is the old way. As you said it's running rough ... could it have been running rough due to bad FPR? or something.
Pressure reading kits are fairly cheap nowadays ... or buy a Ford/Bosch pressure reg for it.
I don’t know anywhere near as much as you blokes but I’m confused as to why the washers would be the problem if the OP only replaced one injector.
Haha, got a few yourself, I've only seen it twice.Quote:
Originally Posted by shack
Yep, always worth a check at the engine endQuote:
Originally Posted by AK83
If the combustion pressures were breaching the fuel gallery enough to make the engine run rough before the injector was changed ( was a new washer used at the time? ), then, especially if other washers are also faulty, every time the engine cranks, it just puts more air into the gallery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
This will never allow the injector(s) to gain the pressure required as they're trying to compress air rather than diesel.
IT LIVES!
I Can only thank my friends, and fellow land rover tragic, Richard for this.
He suggested in passing that there is a small, and very fine, fuel filter behind the fuel pressure regulator, its a pain to get to but if it's clogged it could stop fuel getting to the injectors with any pressure, he suggested that it might have been able to maintain the existing system but me letting the pressure, and fuel, out of the system, it would not support a flow of diesel sufficient to get it back up and running again.
I took the fuel regulator off and found the filter, all of 50mm long and maybe 10 diameter, soaked it with degrease from a pressurised can from all angles, let it dry and put it all back together, bit of a pain but free.
Turned on the ignition, let the pump run until it stopped, the thing started rough in maybe 5 seconds, was ticking over happily after 10 seconds max.
So there you are, who knew there was a filter on the fuel pressure regulator!
I'm also wondering if the gunk that blocked the injector in the first place did the same to the filter.
But there we are, happy ending