Measured it and showed 25.3 mV, tomorrow i will try to buy an new MAP sensor and check, i hope this solve the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
As soon as i change the MAP sensor i update this topic.
Printable View
Measured it and showed 25.3 mV, tomorrow i will try to buy an new MAP sensor and check, i hope this solve the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
As soon as i change the MAP sensor i update this topic.
Clean the MAP sensor before buying another. I had 2 MAP sensors so that I could swap out the dirty one and clean it later using a solvent.
If he has access to a Nanocom, he could also check the readings, that's what I did with mine, then I tried cleaning it but I suppose after somewhere around 450,000 it had just had it. Also, with Nanocom, you can put an SD card in it, go for a drive and record the readings, and analyse themQuote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Just swapped the MAP sensor to an new one (BOSCH [COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9)]0281002205) and nothing has changed, maybe it can be a faulty throttle ?
PS: [/COLOR]While I was driving by the streets to test the new map sensor, I had to stop the vehicle in the middle of a steep climb, and when trying to pull away again it didnt even move from its place , I had to select LOW traction mode to be able to move up and finish climbing Haha.
PS 2: When i turn on the A/C i have the same "lack of power" described above
pWhile I was driving the vehicle to test the new map sensor, I had to stop the vehicle in the middle of a steep climb, and when trying to accelerate the vehicle it left the place, I had to select LOW traction mode to be able to finish move upWhile I was driving the vehicle to test the new map sensor, I had to stop the vehicle in the middle of a steep climb, and when trying to accelerate the vehicle it left the place, I had to select LOW traction mode to be able to finish move up
You really need to plug in a nanocom or similar to go further
My TD5 days were a long time ago but doesn't the MAF get its 12V via a loom that runs across the front of the head and that loom can chaff when the plastic cover deteriorates and cause the fuse to blow when short circuited, thus leaving the MAF without 12V power?
Please do this if you can, someone within striking distance will have one.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
Depending on the revision of the Auto controller you have, you may be able to retrieve some information from that with an OBD2 reader.
Didnt find any nanocom on sale on my country at good price, and as i dont know any owner of it i had to buy an generic scan tool to check some parameters to go further.
Well it just arrived here, and i connected it in the car, there are some parameters i found.
Attachment 188251Attachment 188253 Attachment 188250Attachment 188249
Obs1: i forgot to take a shot of MAF numbers, but it says 0.00 kg/h
Obs2: i recently tested MAF wiring with an multimeter and It seems to be ok, it is not interrupted.
Obs3: curiously BCU odometer shows a different mileage than the dashboard
From what I understand, the symbol in the bottom left corner of the LCD is because the odometer and the BCU are not syncedQuote:
Originally Posted by Henryque
If the MAF is new and you get 0 reading check fuse F2 engine bay, if it's good there is a wiring or ECU issue on that path, if the engine is 10P without EGR the MAF is neglectable, but if it's Eu3 engine that input is very important also read the MAP sensor's inputs too (manifold and inlet air pressures)
that odometer-BCU mileage missmatch has no effect as long as the error warning is disabled while that B on the odometer is bad news, it can develop a huge variety of random symptoms, some of them can be crytical
