Yet another non start post, seeking help in Geelong

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Originally Posted by discorevy

If it's cranking and the red light on the dash is on then it's immobiliser related.

If it's cranking, there's no engine light on and the tacho needle is moving, it's not the CPS.

If the new pump is still cavitating, even a little, you might need to do the injector washers again ( using OEM or genuine and clean the carbon off thoroughly, especially the head faces ).

If it's not cavitating, then look at things like the cam timing being out due to loose cam sprocket bolts as I've seen that one after a "rebuild" before.

Also, it'd be great if you could let us know what it was as most of the time after myself and others post, people that join the forum in order to fix a problem don't get back with the answer. (Not saying you wouldn't, only that most don't)

P.S. If the D2 is a keeper, get a Nanocom

cheers

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So I gave it a crank over and there's no tacho movement whatsover, however no engine light either. This would mean faulty CPS/wiring right?

Just got under it for an hour redoing the wires for the CPS with the old hard plastic removal taking the most time of any of it. No signs of damage from where it splits off, from the main loom + starter/water/FPR wire, these are all in reasonable nick too.

There's absolutely no air in the system, and i pulled that o ring plastic cover off and chain tension seems fine, Sprocket bolts are all fine looking.

At this point I think I should really purchase a nanocom. something i've been putting off for a long time. Any suggerstions where to get one that's not a UK import? :)

Shop - Product NANOCOM Evolution for TD5 Discovery II kit - NANOCOM Diagnostics (nanocom-diagnostics.com)

They have 15% off till Christmas Promo code - XMAS23

sent PM re happy to come down now!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RRT

Shop - Product NANOCOM Evolution for TD5 Discovery II kit - NANOCOM Diagnostics (nanocom-diagnostics.com)

They have 15% off till Christmas Promo code - XMAS23

sent PM re happy to come down now!

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Thank you very much, I'll message you in a moment once I smash out some quick posts to get to the pm unlock :)

Well put the Nanocom and on cranking, the voltage drop was roughly 2.5V from 12.1V. The battery was changed to a freshly charged one at 12.4 and again similar voltage drop which to my understanding will not allow the ECU to kick in.

The revs were around 300rpm when cranking so the CPS is seemingly fine.

What can lead to the voltage drop on both batteries?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RRT

Well put the Nanocom and on cranking, the voltage drop was roughly 2.5V from 12.1V. The battery was changed to a freshly charged one at 12.4 and again similar voltage drop which to my understanding will not allow the ECU to kick in.

The revs were around 300rpm when cranking so the CPS is seemingly fine.

What can lead to the voltage drop on both batteries?

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depending on where you measured the voltage from... IF you were on any of the body electrics or using the indicated voltage from the nanocom

The startermotor.

Start checking your earths and the main lead to the starter/relay/fusible link box as well as the links and fuses.

If you were across the battery terminals

Bad connection to the battery Check all your battery connections

If you were on the battery posts...

Bad battery.

IT was the Nanocom!