Reply With QuoteJust a bolt from memory. And that part of the shield usually cracks.
LordRover
SubscriberTook the thing off years ago to fix something.. Can't remember if the bottom mount was held on by a bolt, or a stud and nut. I know it would be easier to refit it if it was the latter.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Wizard
SupporterJust a bolt from memory. And that part of the shield usually cracks.
LordRover
SubscriberMine isn't cracked, possibly because it hasn't been fitted.. I stopped being lazy and took it off again. Top two are M6, but M6 doesn't fit an M8 hole
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
YarnMaster
SubscriberYou can cut a channel out of the steel part so that you do not remove the bolt, just loosen it.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Master
SupporterDrilling the rivet's out and replacing them with rivnut's so you can leave the bracket on the turbo is also an option
RoverLord
held by 3 bolts , one recessed into a riveted V piece
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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