+ve batt terminal replacement

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Originally Posted by BradC

Then they weren't properly crimped to begin with.

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Not necessarily! but point taken.

Then again, if we are going to make assumptions here, then would should also assume that my soldering wasn't properly done either.

If we are assuming one, then we really should assume total incompetence on my part for all cabling.

Yet still, the incompetently soldered lugs still hold up better than the incompetently crimped lugs ..

ie. net result is the same, solder is stringer than crimping.

ps. crimp was done with hydraulic crimp tool.

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Originally Posted by AK83

Not necessarily! but point taken.

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Sorry, but a correctly formed crimp can't come loose. Sufficient flex will cause eventual breakage of cable strands where it work hardens at the flex point, but if the crimp works loose it's not done correctly. Soldering will always break at the point the solder wicks into the copper wire, and with minimal movement will last for all intents and purposes forever. A soldered joint in a properly restrained scenario is far more forgiving of both tools and workmanship.

Crimps don't come loose because the wire strands and lug are effectively "cold welded" together. Regardless of which crimper you used, if they came loose something (the cable diameter, the lug diameter, lug thickness, die size/shape or pressure) wasn't correct.

There's a reason aviation grade crimps, crimpers and cables are both accurately specified and bloody expensive. It has to be right first time, every time. Most crimpers I see are the "squeeze the **** out of it" type, and in a lot of cases that works ok. I have a pile of crimpers here too from cheap pliers to hydraulic.

I'm not ragging on your workmanship, but properly crimped connectors can't come loose. There's a reason not one automotive manufacturer solders its battery cables.

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Originally Posted by BradC

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I'm not ragging on your workmanship, but properly crimped connectors can't come loose. There's a reason not one automotive manufacturer solders its battery cables.

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Cost! Much cheaper/quicker to crimp.
But, do you know of the D2 crimp issue with the positive cables. They are crimped from factory and they all come loose.

Also, it's fine to question someone's ability to 'work'. I encourage it for my own work/repairs/tinkering.

LOL! side issue, I nearly seized the TD5 the other day and lost all oil(engine). I modded my TD5 with a remote oil filter setup, and one of the hoses to the filter 'popped' off. Wrong fitting type(sold to me). Of the 4 fittings(AN types) 2 were the correct types, and 2 wrong(hose type).
One of the 'wrong' fittings popped off and spewed engine oil all over engine bay and road literally seconds before I got home.
So questioning my work isn't out of bounds in any way.

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Originally Posted by AK83

Cost! Much cheaper/quicker to crimp.

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Indeed. It's why they do most things. It's why most modern cars are FWD, regardless of what the marketing people want you to believe. They are much cheaper to build.

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Originally Posted by AK83

But, do you know of the D2 crimp issue with the positive cables. They are crimped from factory and they all come loose.

Also, it's fine to question someone's ability to 'work'. I encourage it for my own work/repairs/tinkering.

LOL! side issue, I nearly seized the TD5 the other day and lost all oil(engine). I modded my TD5 with a remote oil filter setup, and one of the hoses to the filter 'popped' off. Wrong fitting type(sold to me). Of the 4 fittings(AN types) 2 were the correct types, and 2 wrong(hose type).
One of the 'wrong' fittings popped off and spewed engine oil all over engine bay and road literally seconds before I got home.
So questioning my work isn't out of bounds in any way.

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Indeed again. Done without disparagement, it is one of the best ways to teach.
Example, with apologies to the late, great Murray Ball.

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