Oil pressure warning light intermittent

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Originally Posted by Tinggu

I think that's a failing of the Nanocom.

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Nope. As FNQLR says, the oil switch is just that. On/off. Nanocom can't display what it can't see.

It's relatively easy to fit an oil pressure gauge. I'd do a temp gauge and low coolant alarm while you're at it. LR cheaped out on those as well. TD5 temp gauge only tells you there's something wrong after it's too late, ask me how I know.

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Originally Posted by Tins

Nope. As FNQLR says, the oil switch is just that. On/off. Nanocom can't display what it can't see.

It's relatively easy to fit an oil pressure gauge. I'd do a temp gauge and low coolant alarm while you're at it. LR cheaped out on those as well. TD5 temp gauge only tells you there's something wrong after it's too late, ask me how I know.

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I dodged a bullet, my son rang to tell em that the temp gauge shot up and the red light came on driving home from Geelong. I replaced the oil cooler hose blank and refilled with coolant and all is good, this was about 3 years ago.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I dodged a bullet, .

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I didn't, and the bullet was a head gasket[bigsad]

To be fair, even a fancy temp alarm wasn't going to save me, the car still had the infamous plastic dowels.

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Originally Posted by Tins

I didn't, and the bullet was a head gasket[bigsad]

To be fair, even a fancy temp alarm wasn't going to save me, the car still had the infamous plastic dowels.

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My head gasket went in 2015 ithat head gasket was repaired with the steel dowels, maybe that saved it this time.

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Originally Posted by Tinggu

Thanks for the illustration. I'll have a look.
Under and behind the turbo. I have an embarrassing oil leak whose source I have not been able to locate, but in that vicinity. I am leaning towards the idea of the oil pressure switch physically leaking. Had that years ago in an HQ.

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To be simpler, it's connected to the oil cooler housing

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Originally Posted by Tinggu

I am leaning towards the idea of the oil pressure switch physically leaking. Had that years ago in an HQ.

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That could probably do it.. Far easier to get at than it looks, but wait until it's at least cool enough to touch. Obviously..

Here's one That's not a recommendation as such, but I've had good service from them.

Just a heads up. If the sender is flickering on idle either do an oil pressure test with a gauge or replace the sender.
In my long life I have replaced/rebuilt 2 engines when it was the sender all along. You cannot imagine the angst after rebuilding a RRC engine to see the oil light come on at idle after new bearings etc only to extinguish with a new sender.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Just a heads up. If the sender is flickering on idle either do an oil pressure test with a gauge or replace the sender.
In my long life I have replaced/rebuilt 2 engines when it was the sender all along. You cannot imagine the angst after rebuilding a RRC engine to see the oil light come on at idle after new bearings etc only to extinguish with a new sender.
Regards PhilipA

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Ha! I've usually approached it the other way, i.e. it's probably the sender.... Cost me a B Series engine to a failed big end. Long time ago, and lesson learned. But the OP says that that's not the behaviour. If it comes on it stays on, no flickering at idle. Prolly not a lack of oil pressure in that case.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I took off the heat shield and there was a very leaky oil pressure switch. Have blocked the hole in the switch with a screw thread and Araldite so I can drive around while I'm waiting for the new one. One of the wires broke, behind the cylinder head so I need to chase that back to where it comes from. Found another manifold stud sheared off. I knew I had one missing so she's a bit sooty round there. What are my chances of getting the stubs out with an easyout? What ****y little studs for an important job. No wonder they fail.

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Originally Posted by Tinggu

Thanks for the advice everyone. I took off the heat shield and there was a very leaky oil pressure switch. Have blocked the hole in the switch with a screw thread and Araldite so I can drive around while I'm waiting for the new one. One of the wires broke, behind the cylinder head so I need to chase that back to where it comes from. Found another manifold stud sheared off. I knew I had one missing so she's a bit sooty round there. What are my chances of getting the stubs out with an easyout? What ****y little studs for an important job. No wonder they fail.

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I had zero dramas getting mine out.

Spend the money and buy cobalt / super good drill bits. a fresh one for each stud.
Spend the time and remove all the crap hanging off the engine so you have good access as well.