Thread: Won't turn over. Suspect P and N switch

Does the gear position indicator in the odometer show the gear selected? If so that possibly eliminates the XYZ switch. Personally I’d prefer it was the starter than the XYZ.
If the gear selection is indicated then check the small lead onto the starter is secure. They suffer from the heat and get brittle and the vibration can cause poor connection. The fact that the dash stuff shuts off probably eliminates and the ignition switch.

just somewhere to start.

Originally Posted by Tins

Does the gear position indicator in the odometer show the gear selected? If so that possibly eliminates the XYZ switch. Personally I’d prefer it was the starter than the XYZ.
If the gear selection is indicated then check the small lead onto the starter is secure. They suffer from the heat and get brittle and the vibration can cause poor connection. The fact that the dash stuff shuts off probably eliminates and the ignition switch.

just somewhere to start.

No.
No gear position indicator in odometer. Am I to assume now that the problem is likely the XYZ switch? If you would prefer the starter to that then I can see I'm in for some fun. Starter had me doubting my sanity a few years back.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'd be lost.....!

What about the selection indicator on the central console ?... if that one works and the XYZ switch is ruled out and the problem is probably with the BCU even though the BCU can be the problem for the lack of console indications too... can't you find somebody with nanocom or similar to properly diagnose this?

BTW... if it's about the switch you should see the flashing M+S warnings

I would only prefer the starter because of the cost. XYZ is easy but eyewatering price wise.

Originally Posted by Tins

I would only prefer the starter because of the cost. XYZ is easy but eyewatering price wise.

Oh, I see now!
Crikey Moses!
Any way of testing the XYZ?

Originally Posted by Tinggu

Any way of testing the XYZ?

Genuine OEM units can be disassembled and cleaned up for a refurb. Drill out the rivets and replace with appropriate size bolts. My XYZ switch is now 22 years old and has done 350,000km - I've had to open it up once in that time and clean up the internals.

If it's been replaced with a pattern knock off part then it's rubbish. Internally there different and much cheaper made with reduced quality.

There may be a guide to testing them in Rave?

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Genuine OEM units can be disassembled and cleaned up for a refurb. Drill out the rivets and replace with appropriate size bolts. My XYZ switch is now 22 years old and has done 350,000km - I've had to open it up once in that time and clean up the internals.

If it's been replaced with a pattern knock off part then it's rubbish. Internally there different and much cheaper made with reduced quality.

There may be a guide to testing them in Rave?

Thanks for that. Sounds promising. Much better than $1500 !!
I did get Rave long time back but have never been able to open it.
I have never had anything to do with the XYZ switch but it does sound as though it may be the problem. I guess i should pull it out and follow your suggestion.
To compound my ignorance the XYZ is something I have heard of but have no idea what it does other than helps the car go.

Do you have a nanocom?